Martin:
Referring back to my original e-mail. You have to believe the wheel will
come off.
The wheel is seized to the splines and taper. Impact or heat are the only
things that are going to break this seizure free.
This type of steering wheel has a steel splined insert, so it is prone to
seizure. All the other years have an alloy splined hub and can usually be
wobbled off.
The last one I did ended up with damaged threads on the shaft, so be
careful. I put my knees under the wheel with enough pressure to feel the
wheel bending. Then hit the backed off nut with a BG Brass Hammer.
Unfortunately I did not hit the nut quite square, which caused the soft
threads to deform slightly. But, the wheel did come free after the third
whack. Then I spent about 20 minutes thread chasing the shaft back into
shape (not recomended). So there I am, owning up to being a DPO, but at
least I got the wheel off. An alternative would be to get a oxy/acc set in
there and very quickly hit the shaft with enough heat to break the seizure.
Do not use propane, as it would take too long to heat and would tend to melt
the wheel. A very quick, careful touch can transfer enough heat without
damaging surrounding components. If that doesn't work, there is always
detonating cord.
The very best of luck, and above all work safetly.
Kelvin.
>
> I give up! Still working to remove steering wheel from 77
> mgb. This is the
> molded wheel with the small plastic motif disc that snaps
> into center to
> conceal the 1" nut. Is there anything else to release
> besides the nut to pull
> wheel off of splined shaft??? Have left nut on so I don't
> end up in the
> dentist's office, but this sucker isn't budging. And I am no
> small guy. I've
> rigged a gear puller to apply added pressure, but all it is
> doing is beginning
> to deform the metal ring under the rubber molded center section.
>
> Added advice???
>
> Martin Libhart
> 77 MGB
> 72 B/GT
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