When I picked this one up they warned me they were crap. They had one in a
Lucas box for $42.95, but they said as far as they could tell it was the
same thing, so don't waste your money.
The new one was physically a little different from my old one, which had
been on there at least 10 years. So long as they are less than $10 I can
handle them being a consumable item.
on 6/14/03 12:55 PM, Philip E.E Bacon at pboldtrix@juno.com wrote:
>
> Max -- Just had this problem on my '67 BGTwith precisely the same
> symtoms. Could find no reason either, so I just replaced the switch
> (less than $5) I might add this is the second switch in two years (from
> Moss) It now works fine. I chalked it up to inferior workmanship to
> current aftermarket parts. Wish I could find an OEM switch.
> Phil Bacon
>
> On Sat, 14 Jun 2003 09:20:13 -0700 Max Heim <mvheim@studiolimage.com>
> writes:
>> The other night another driver informed me that the brake lights
>> weren't
>> working on the B. I was astonished to hear this, so when I got home,
>> I
>> backed up to a fence and tried to confirm the problem. What I found
>> out
>> puzzled me. There was no sign of brake lights upon normal
>> application of the
>> pedal, but if I really really pushed hard on the pedal (I mean
>> ridiculously
>> hard, with both feet), the brake lights came on.
>>
>> I could come up with an explanation for this situation if there was
>> an
>> adjustable, pedal-mounted switch, as in some cars, but the B has a
>> pressure-sensing switch in the brake line, which I always thought of
>> as
>> bimodal (on or off above a certain threshold), not as progressive.
>> Anyone
>> have any insight? Obviously the switch has not (completely) failed,
>> and the
>> bulbs work.
>>
>> TIA,
>> Max
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|