Just bought a voltmeter and found that I've only got 12v on a brown when
idling at 2000rpm - I assume this is pretty bad news & I'm not getting any
charging.
I had a new alternator fitted in October, so it *should* be OK. Any idea
what I should check next?
I also checked the current (as advised by the instructions that came with
the multimeter) and I get a pulsing current (that seems to match the ticking
clock) of 20mA. Removing fuses 1 to 3 made no difference, but removing the
4th fuse from the top reduces the current to a steady 15mA. Is this normal?
According to the multimeter booklet, the "parasitic load" should be less
than 15mA. My Haynes manual tells me that the ignition circuit is fuse 3 so
I would think that *if* I had a drain from somewhere in the ignition system,
removing that fuse would reduce the current. The ignition light stopped
behaving oddly before I put the new battery in.
Lysander
1978 RBB
Sounds like a dynamo or control box problem (assuming no conversion to
alternator), possibly a couple of wires shorting together. The light
doesn't have an earth as such but is connected between 12v at the ignition
and the dynamo output, would come on while running because it has stopped
charging, and come on when switched off if the cut out relay was stuck
operated and its contacts closed. This would drain the battery so you are
doing the right thing by disconnecting it. Next time you start it check the
voltage on a brown at the fusebox, it should be about 15v at a fast idle
with minimal electrical load. If 12v or less it is not charging so the
engine is slowly draining the battery, the starter rapidly so. If you see
between 12 and 15v there is some charge but not enough.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Oldfield" <neil_oldfield@msn.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2003 2:19 PM
Subject: Eletrical Gremlins
> This morning on the way to work, the ignition light came on...
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