> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm trying to prep my B-GT for the coming autocross season,
> so I am going to
> have a never ending stream of queries and requests for parts advice.
>
> 1. 5 Point Harness installation - are there any tips from
> those who have
> installed one in a B? In particular, how have folks handled
> the middle
> front mounting point?
Middle front is under the seat. Drill a hole in the floor panel and install
a ring bolt with a minimum 2" thick washer. This point does not have much
loading so is not hypercritical.
Lap belt mounts to original mounting points. Supplied ring bolts are the
correct thread for the stock holes. The strength of this mounting is
critical.
For the shoulder harnesses, Make up backing plates (mine are 3" x 5") that
will reinforce the pickup point. My car is a roadster, so these are in the
trunk as close to the floor as possible. In a GT, I'm thinking you want to
tie in to the leading edge of the spare tire well. You want (if i remember
correctly) a 60 degree angle from shoulder to mounting point. Keep the run
as short as feasible. For ultra safety, fitting a tie bar from inner fender
to fender at the correct height keeps the belt length short and at the
correct angle. The shoulder belts are critical, as they have to keep you in
place without falling off the shoulders and the mounting points have to be
free from distortion in a major incident. Nothing like being crushed by
your own belts.
>
> 2. High Performance Front Suspension Bush Sets - Are the
> ones from Moss
> (prothane) as good as the ones from MGOC? I'd rather just
> order from Moss
> if one set is as good as the other.
I've bought a set of UK sourced poly bushes for my SD1. Six of one,
half dozen of the other.
My personal choice is the black Polyurethane lower bushes from Moss
(I'm not a fan of the V8 bushings). I like the grey Nylatron upper bushes,
which material I also recomend for the rear spring pads and rear leaf
bushes.
>
> 3. Heavy Duty Clutch - what are the options? The Borg-Beck
> from Moss looks
> like the frontrunner right now.
The stock B & B will handle pretty much anything you can throw at
it. If you burn it out autocrossing, I'd suggest driving smoother.
>
> 4. High Performance Brake Pads - The system needs to be
> optimal without
> warming up (autocross). Any suggestions? Also, if grippier
> pads are used
> up front, does the rear balance get thrown off - and is there a fix?
No experience with pads. Based on reading and research, I'd suggest trying
the EBC Green Stuff for autocross. If nothing else at least you won't have
filthy wheels after a run.
I've never run into a quick fix for brake bias. FME Most of autocross
braking is done with the engine, till you get to the finish box. Then it's
a question of making sure none of the wheels lockup. I am not an expert,
but common sense would say that you want to balance the car so that with
typical end of run brake temperature you want to get the best bite just
short of lockup on all wheels. This you can set up by playing in a parking
lot. Typically in these circumstances the front end locks before the back,
so bias is not an issue. In road racing under extreme braking the back can
get light enough to lock, so rear bias is reduced by either installing
different cylinders, brake bias control (which can only reduce rear
pressure) or a custom twin cylinder system with balance bar. I don't think
autocross speeds are ever high enough to cause this kind of problem, but
again I'm not an autocross wiz. I tend to get lost if there are not trees
on both sides of the course.
Hey Barney! What's your take? you are the autox king.
Kelvin.
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