Last night I finished installing the fresh (stock) head with fresh
valve job, freshly surfaced etc. and a brand new Payen head gasket.
I had a duece of a time firing her off, until I looked inside the
distributor cap and cleaned off all the condensation.
For some reason the timing that was needed with the cracked head was
way too advanced for the fresh head, so I backed her off to original
spec. Does anyone know why a bad head would need an extra 20 degrees
of advance?
Just to keep everything from going too smoothly, my headlamp switch
committed sepuku. I found my self with the choice of headlights or
instrument lights, or as "Officer Friendly" pointed out, headlights or
taillights. I promised to fix it today (which I did) and he didn't
even write me a fixit ticket.
The BBC needle was way too lean in the low midrange, I put in a BCF
and it behaves much better. I'll try to get a dyno run in the near
future.
I still have troubles with the tail end of the header hanging down too
low. I'll see if I can get some sort of a mount made for the tailpipe
near where it connects to the header and pull it up part of the inch
or two of clearance that I have between the header and the tranny
cross brace.
The autometer boost guage I just installed showed about 6.5 pounds of
boost, which is what it was specced for.
I've been driving her around Santa Cruz and the San Lorenzo Valley
since last night, I'm about to try a run over the hill to San Jose. At
least I have that critical tool in my oshitkit, a AAA card and a cell
phone.
What are the reccommended valve lash settings for a hot motor?
If the weather holds up, I'll try to schedule a debutante lunch for
Jasmine sometime soon on the SF Peninsula (near Redwood City), if
you'd be interested in showing up, drop me a note with preferences for
days, place and type of food.
Larry
--
I've found something worse than oldies station that play the music I used to
listen to. Oldies stations that play the "new" music I used to complain about.
lrc@red4est.com http://www.red4est.com/lrc
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