If one of the square retainers you are talking about is held on with a stud and
a nut on the inside, it is correct, there is one of these on each panel (6
total) the molding has to be slid onto this square retainer and then snapped
onto the the round ones... All I can figure is this was to keep the molding
from
popping off on the road....It snaps on the round ones easier if you hook the
top
lip of the molding on the snaps first and then push the bottom edge on.
Just my experience
Chad '72B
Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
> Patton:
>
> Seconding the post from Telewest.
>
> The snaps are readily available, and removing them makes it much easier to
> finish sand the panels. Watch out when you apply bondo, as it is easy to
> cover up the holes, and a pain to try to find them later.
>
> I normally paint the car, then install the rivet snaps when the finish
> buffing has been done. When you do this, the rivets can damage any paint in
> the hole, so either as suggested waxoyl, or a dab of silicone on the rivet
> before installing to prevent rust starting.
>
> When rivetting the snaps in place, you have to develop a "pull back" reflex
> when the rivet snaps. If you don't, the nose of the rivet gun hits the new
> paint resulting in oral pollution.
>
>
> Filler works better on bare, etched metal. Most primers are porous, so do
> your homework before priming bare metal and leaving it for any time.
>
>
> When you get into the dog legs, the inner sheet metal is going to be worse
> than the outer. The inner metal can be patched with flat sheet, and this is
> a really good time to learn how to weld. In fact a $300 MGB is a great way
> to find folks to help you with tools and teaching. Ask around, chances are
> there are helpful folks to tap.
>
>
> Kelvin.
>>A few of the molding strip holders are missing, and one has been
>>replaced with a square style snap instead of a round one. I
>>am thinking
>>about drilling them all out and replacing with new ones after the
>>bodywork is done. Is that a bad idea?
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