The TD waterpump stud may be different but in general studs should only be
inserted with very light torque, the main torque comes from when the mating
piece is placed over the stud and the nut tightened. Torquing a stud to nut
values can easily crack the casting it is screwed into. Casting threads
should be clean, of course, and free of any fluid to allow the stud to go in
easily and to the bottom of the tapped hole. Locktite on the stud is
unlikely to be a problem, but if the stud is inserted to two or three times
the depth of the nut thread it is unlikely to be going anywhere when the nut
is tightened.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Balinski" <eugeneb@nni.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 27, 2002 2:45 PM
Subject: 'TD Water Pump Stud Install - proper technique ?
> Listers,
>
> First, thanks for all of the replys about my friends 53
> 'TD water pump. He got the nut off. Now we have to remove
> the stud and replace it. We have the stud.
>
> My questions are these: 1) what is the proper technique
> for stud installation ? I presume that it can be hand
> installed and then tightened up using the nut-on-nut
> method. 2) Is there a recommended torque ? 3) Do we
> need to use Locktite (red ? blue?) on the engine block end
> of the stud ? 4) Or, as some have suggested, should we
> forego the Locktite, tighten up the stud in the block, and
> just use some anti-seize on the nut holding the pump ?
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