With the red-whites occupying both spades on one side you will have to rig
up a connector comprising three male spades connected together to link all
three female connectors. Some years only have one red-white connector so
with these it is a simple matter of moving that to the spare spade on the
red/green side.
If you're going to bypass the rheostat then you needn't worry about the
heat, it won't be there when bypassed and your lights will be brighter. All
the ones I have opened up have been printed circuit inside and I could see
where the thicker sections at the 'bright' end had burnt out, about which
nothing can be done, and replacements are pretty expensive.
----- Original Message -----
From: <proot@attbi.com>
To: "Unknown Mg list" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 03, 2002 9:23 PM
Subject: dash light reostat
> Hi all,
> I remember a few months back that there was
> talk about the dimmer switch for the dash lights.
> Mine has been fussy for the entire time I've had it
> and apparently, gave up the ghost last night.
>
> It's tie wrapped to the cross brace under the dash, as
> the choke is put in it's place.
>
> I took a quick look at it and at Bentley's wiring
> diagram. Thankfully they match. There is a Red-Green
> going in, and 3 Red-Whites (on two prongs) coming out.
>
> Am I right in thinking that I can rig a connector to
> connect these wires together directly. Since the reostat
> only really does off all the way up to dim anyway, who
> needs it?
>
> Oh, the back of the switch was pretty hot to the
> touch (not burning). Could this location be bad for it?
> I'm going to pull it when I get a chance and see what I
> can do about the insides.
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