Wire wheel/non wire wheel bearing replacement is exactly the same
Tube axle hubs are a doddle to get off. I have a bog-standard 1-5/16" 1/2"
drive non-impact socket which fits just fine, its OD is 1.73". Fit the road
wheel to the hub and put the wheel on the ground to loosen the hub nut, and
to retighten it to the correct torque + next split pin hole. Tapping the
back of the hub with a soft hammer whilst rotating it (the hub) should get
the hub off no problem, loosely refitting it when the bearing retainer cap
bolts are off should also withdraw the bearing and half-shaft no problem.
Removing and refitting bearings to half-shaft is definitely a job for
someone with a press, in my book. You shouldn't have to remove the slaves
from the back-plate unless you are repainting/replacing.
I recall having problems undoing the nuts securing the disc to the front
hubs when I replaced mine - like not enough space for a standard socket.
You will need a set of shims to set the correct end-float when replacing the
front bearings.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 08, 2002 3:40 AM
Subject: Replacing wire wheel hubs. Pointers and tips wanted.
> Soon I am going to be replacing my wheels and hubs. I have my Haynes
> and factory manuals, and will read them on how to do the job, so I'm
> not looking for a step by step. (Read one already)
>
> I have replaced non wire wheel bearings (That chevette in highschool
> taught me a few things.) before.
>
> What I am looking for is pointers and things to watch as well as tips
> that are not going to be evident to me as a first timer with my wires
> off.
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