Rear brakes sticking sounds like it might be a rear cylinder leak, with
fluid on the shoes. Messy job, but not technically difficult.
I can't quite figure your transmission situation, either. There is no way
that the four synchro shifter would line up with the hole in the original
cover -- it should be 1-1/2 to 2 inches too far to the rear. And that
crooked shifter lever looks like the 3-synchro lever -- the later one is
straight and larger diameter. It almost looks like the cover is riveted on
in the photo -- is that correct? Mine used bolts, into fixed nuts in the
tunnel.
After close examination of the photos, I would guess that the cover has been
moved or modified -- it doesn't seem to sit quite right. So that could
accommodate the lever position.
But the three bolt arrangement doesn't look right at all. At the least the
bolts are wrong -- the heads are too big and they are probably too long to
fit (based on your description). Have you tried replacing them with
smaller-headed bolts? Maybe you have some other sort of British tranny? Or a
different shifter extension?
on 5/24/02 9:17 AM, Patton Dickson at kpdii@earthlink.net wrote:
>
> My rear brakes occasionally stick. What I mean by that is they sometimes
> grab then let go after I try to move. This usually results in a little
> spinning of the wheels a seen by the marks at the bottom of my driveway!!!
> Is this something related to sitting for a while and I need to putt the
> wheel and clean, or does this point to something else.
>
> On the transmission shifter housing there I have the ball cover that looks
> like an inverted bowl, there are three bolts that seem to be there to hold
> the cover on, but they are not (nor can be) bolted all the way down. The
> exploded transmission picture in the Moss and Vicky Brit catalog does not
> show bolts for the 67 transmission but it seems to use a clip. I see the
> later style uses screws, but it does not use the bowl shaped cover but
> instead a flat one. Driving down the street and back tells me I have the
> later all sync transmission. I think I have a DPO problem here since
> there is no way to tighten down the heads of the nuts without them rubbing
> on the coupling. I took some pics with the digital camera and posted it to
> the link below, so people can look.
>
> Does anyone have any idea what I need to do, leaving them loose can't be
> right. Please look at the pictures at the following like and let me know.
>
> http://carport.virtualave.net/shifter.htm
>
> Also, though not a pressing issue. I think I still have the early
> transmission tunnel with a cover to work with the later style, can you guys
> tell from the pictures in the above link? When I order carpet for the car,
> what do I need to order if this is non standard (early carpet kit vs a
> later carpet kit. Can I still get the molded tunnel carpet?
>
> Next, I was going to send my new number plate off to Todd Clarke, but
> hadn't gotten around to it. Has anyone done it themselves? What did you use
> (I see Harbor Freight has a cheap stamp sets, but I don't know what size
> would be correct). I will need this done before inspection.
>
> Does anyone know the nut size for the rear bumper for my 67 MGB so I can
> mount that?
>
> I also have to bolt the wind shield down and get the flashers working, do
> you think I need to worry about installing the vent windows and side
> glass? I don't think I need them for inspection, but I am not sure. When
> I got the Corvair inspected it was lights, horn, flashers, wipers and that
> was all, but it was obviously a complete car.
>
> I am sure that I will come across other problems. Hopefully I can get
> most of this knocked out over the next three days and I can technically
> have the car on the road for British Car Week
>
> Patton
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Patton Dickson - Richmond, TX
> 1965 Corvair Monza 110/4sp 'vert
> 1967 MGB MK I Roadster
> http://carport.virtualave.net/
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the primer red one with chrome wires
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