Are the fast-idle screws clear of their cams as well? Slacken all the
interconnection rod clamps. If the engine doesn't stall now then one or
both of the butterflys are not seating in the throat. Correctly seated they
should shut off the mixture completely. If loosening the clamps cures it
then the carbs weren't balanced - one butterfly was shut and via the clamps
holding the other opened.
The other thing is normal for manifold vacuum. It applies full vacuum
advance to the dizzie which will give a much higher idle for the same
throttle opening (so the idle can be reduced, so less fuel is being used
i.e. lower idle emissions). But correctly assembled and setup carbs should
still be able to stall the engine even with full manifold vacuum applied.
----- Original Message -----
From: "gc" <litfuse@isp01.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 6:43 PM
Subject: High idle
> I finished a swapover from a ZS to twin HIF4s and I love it. The car is a
> 1980 LE with a 1972-ish HC detoxed motor
> The dizzy appears to be from a '78 or '79. The carbs have K&N filters and
> AAA needles.
>
> My problem: High idle that won't drop down below 2200 when warm.
> Adjusting screws not even touching bottom.
> Haven't found any inleakage of air. Mixture seems right, at least for
that
> idle.
>
> Confounding, possible related problem: timing. I don't have a modulated
> vacuum port on the carbs, so I used a fitting on the intake manifold.
When
> I remove the line (and plug the port), idle comes right down. Reconnect,
> and vrooom!
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