I have not yet uploaded this to my web site so include the full text instead
of just a link:
This is the bright trim that runs the length of the other panels in three
sections. For most of their length they are held on by cup-shaped washers
over which the trim clips, but right by the headlights and the tail lights
there is also a stud and nut. The door section should also have a stud at
the leading edge. The rear is the easiest to remove as it is kept clean, is
clearly visible and you can get a nut driver on it. The door is trickier
because of the limited access - you may have to use an open-ended spanner -
and it could be rusty, but the front wing is worst as not only does it catch
all the road dirt but the nut is so close to the flange on the inside of the
wing that although you have the physical space to manipulate a nut-driver
you cannot usually get the socket over the nut. At least you can use the nut
on the rear section to check which size spanner you need for the other two.
Once you have the nuts and washers off the studs you can lever the trim off
the other fastenings. Start at one end with a screwdriver levering against a
wood block resting on a cloth to protect the paint, then free the other end.
You should be able to take one free end and lift the trim off the next
fastening in line, sometimes lifting off one edge first then the other works
best. By doing both ends first you avoid digging the end of the trim into
the paint when taking it off the last fastener.
Drill out the old fasteners, which are held on with aluminium pop-rivets of
about 2mm in diameter. You may have to hold the cup-shaped washer in a pair
of pliers to stop it spinning round with the drill.
Fitting kits are available containing the full complement of pop-rivets with
cup-shaped washers attached and six studs and nuts, sometimes washers too
sometimes not. However I have found that if a panel has been replaced from
the trim down there can be a double-thickness of metal plus filler, and the
pop-rivets as supplied are not long enough to go right through. Consequently
they expand inside the hole and can work loose, sometimes when trying to
refit the trim. Also if a panel has been skimmed, painted and drilled a
couple of times or more the holes can become large and uneven, so again the
pop-rivets don't expand behind the holes but inside. I bought some
long-reach rivets and transferred the cup-shaped washers over, then used an
appropriately-sized washer behind the panel, so not only did the pop-rivet
go through a skim of filler two panels and a washer, but it also secured
firmly behind the washer no matter how large and irregular the hole was.
When preparing to fit new fasteners to the body hopefully the painted holes
will be large enough to accept them. But if not, slightly overdrill the hole
and put some paint on the bare edges. In any case dip the fasteners in
Waxoyl before putting them in the holes in the panels. Even if you have a
long-nose pop-rivet gun its nose may be too big to go inside the cup-washer.
Don't be tempted to fasten them like this as the rivet gun may expand the
washer and make it much more difficult to get the trim on, slip a small nut
over the pin on the rivet so the gun bears on the nut and the nut on the
cup-washer. Have a supply ready as they jump off and get lost as the pin
breaks.
Before attempting to fit the trim to the car go carefully over the edges and
make sure there are no sharp flashings that will cut into the paint
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan, Wesley" <wryan@giplastek.com>
To: "'Skye Poier'" <skye@ffwd.cx>; "MG Nuts" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 7:14 PM
Subject: Chrome Trim
> I am getting ready to pick up my mg from the painter and I had removed the
> chrome trim from the sides of my 76 mgb and would like to know how hard it
> is to put them back on. Anyone have experience. Tips and tricks would be
> great because I am scared to screw up my new paint job.
>
>
> Wes
> 76 mgb
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