For an unknown set, there are a few things to check that apply to most SUs.
First, check the throttle shafts for play. There should not be very much
radial movement. If there is, this will result in a vacuum leak between the
shaft and the body that will seriously affect the carburetor's ability to
perform. This can be corrected by inserting bushings and a new shaft.
Another alternative is to ream the holes oversize and fit an oversize shaft.
Second, check the movement of the pistons in the dome. After cleaning, they
should move freely. The domes and the pistons should be free of scratches
or wear spots. There is a simple test that can be performed to test the
dome to piston clearance listed in most manuals.
These two tests will help you to determine if you can rebuild them at home
or will need to send the bodies out for rebushing and other work.
Other things for him to look for?
Randy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Chris Thompson
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 9:44 AM
To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Help HIF4 Balancing/Tuning
All of this from Randy and Rick is fantastic information I'm saving for
later reference. But....
I have a 73B with a Weber DGV that has seen better days. A while back I
snagged cheaply off the internet a set of AUD135 HS4's, manifold, heat
shield and linkages a guy had pulled off a "recently restored" 67 he was
installing DCOEs and cross flow header for racing.
(Yes, I realize that a 73 should have HIF4's but after consulting here a
long while ago, the consensus was that since I'm free of emissions
constraints, and I was rebuilding the engine anyway (soon) I should model my
18V after the 67 model.)
They arrived, and have been sitting in a box in my basement for nine months.
They look to be in good shape to my untrained eye, but what steps should I
take to ensure that they're solid?
-C
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