You don't say if you run the car with anti-freeze and corrosion inhibiter,
with plain water you will get internal rusting. Do you first drain the
system when hot and leave to cool? You need to in order to get the solids
circulating so they are mostly flushed out. Do you have the heater temp
control at hot while you are draining/refilling?
Sounds like the spade connectors in your alt plug need a little tweak if
they are falling off an their own. A dim alt light, particularly if it
brightens with added electrical load, can be indicative of bad diodes as
well as bad connections in the charging circuit. Check the voltage each
side of your ignition warning light (brown/yellow at the alt and white at
the multi-plug by the steering column). At a fast idle you should get about
14.5v both sides, if either side is higher or lower than that it indicates
problems. Low on the brown/yellow indicates diodes, low on the white
indicates connections.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Jose" <mwjose@cox.net>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 8:38 PM
Subject: backflushing cooling system--tips?
> I want to completely backflush my cooling system, as it is a
> liittle sludgy.
> Now, I have tried this before, with limited success. I've run water
> through the engine while it ran to flush it out, I've tried some
> flushing solutions commercially available, but I always seem to end up
> with brownish coolant after just a little while. Is this symptomatic of
> something, or is there another way to flush?
> What have any of you guys used?
> As per my alternator problem, it seems that a lot of it is the plug,
> which keeps falling out. I'm still having some trouble with the
> ignition light glowing at night, but I believe it to be bad
> connections.
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