"Garner, Joseph P." wrote:
> so any tricks or tips? should i give up on the moss gasket and just cut
> myself a new one out of a thinner material? I could then gasket-goop it in
> place without risk of it slipping when it is bolted down.
>
> I really want to get this right, because it is a phenomenal ball ache to
> take the manifold off each time (not to mention having to buy new gaskets
> for the manifold and all of the intake gubbins).
It has been *many* years since I overhauled a B series. The A series
has a similar problem, except that the vent side-plate is exactly
like the non-vent sideplate (tappet access cover); it has the ridges
and all to help locate the gasket. They often still leak anyway.
Here's my best advice:
Use a black rubber gasket, rather than a cork one, if possible.
Cork will do, but it's not the best.
Use aviation-grade flexible gasket sealer; it's usually dark blue or
violet and transparent.
Make very certain that there is no oil or other contaminant on the
sealing surfaces of the plate and block.
Run the bolt into the block using only fingers. If it doesn't go in
easily, either use a new bolt or wire-brush the old one and, if
necessary, use a small rotary wire-brussh in the bolt hole or run
the proper size well-oiled tap into the hole. This makes the whole
job easier.
Liberally apply the gasket-sealer on the side of the gasket that
will mate to the cover plate. Do the same on the gasket area of the
cover plate. Let them dry thoroughly. Mate them together carefully
and let them dry. I also use pressure.
Apply the gasket-sealer onto the remaining gasket side and the
proper part of the engine block. Let them dry well. Stick the center
bolt through a nice fat O-ring that fits tight on the bolt (don't
use cork or composition gaskets here) then I add a flat steel washer
to squeeze the O-ring against the cover. I liberally apply gasket
sealer to these and then place this assembly on the cover with the
bolt through the cover. Then I mate this assembly to the block this
way:
I offer up the assembly, being careful not to touch the sealing
surfaces, but handling the assembly by the edges. The bolt should
begin to enter the threaded hole in the block before the mating
surfaces begin to touch. Holding the plate parallel to the block, I
take up the slack on the bolt and turn it in until the sealing
surfaces are touching (this where you will be glad you checked the
bolt in the hole was turning freely, then do about one more turn on
the bolt. Observe to make sure you aren't distorting the gasket or
O-ring.
I leave it all alone overnight to let it set and dry. Then I tighten
the bolt, observing to make sure it isn't overtightened enough to
harm or disturb the gasket and O-ring. I have never had a leak if I
do it this way. I buy the O-rings at the parts store; I don't like
the cork, composition or thin flat rubber gaskets on the bolt; they
tend to fail way too often.
The flexible aircraft-grade sealer is magic. It never dries hard,
but it will seal like crazy and will really stick things together if
used like contact cement, pre-applied, as described above.
-Rock http://www.rocky-frisco.com
--
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