The part about stiffness I can agree with. The V8 is despite completely
dismantling everything except the valve (if you know where it is you'll know
what I mean), checking the dash control was lubricated and free, and the
inners and outers were not kinked. But I still had to fabricate an
additional clamp at each end of the cable to stop it pulling out of
alignment it was so stiff.
The roadster had a different problem in that once I had it got shut
completely off (i.e. on the flat part) the outer would simply expand like a
spring rather than open the valve again. My solution there was to stretch
the final 1/2" or so of the outer and clamp it behind that. With the inner
correctly adjusted I can shut the valve, but this compresses the stretched
part of the outer, so when I want the valve open there is the push from the
cable inner *plus* the spring-effect of the stretched outer, which is just
enough to push the moving part of the valve off the flat part of its travel
that Hans mentioned. After that it is fine.
Having done that I find absolutely no problem in getting either max heat or
shutting it off on both cars. It is true that neither valve ever gets moved
to its 'fully open' position, but then I find I have to move the knob - and
valve - a considerable distance away from fully open before there is any
reduction in heat. Whether that implies there are restrictions elsewhere in
the system I don't know, but the roadster burns our feet and the V8 is
'adequate' in the depths of a UK winter. But then, I don't have a modern
Euro-box turning me into an ole softy.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Duinhoven_Hans@emc.com>
To: <mgbob@juno.com>; <d_dibiase@yahoo.com>
Cc: <David.Hayes@gmx.net>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 4:19 PM
Subject: RE:
> I've got it all lubed very well and the knobs turn nicely with reasonable
> effort.
> The cable is new (see the history in the archives) and moves freely.
> The water valve was new when the car was purchased - almost not used since
> then (1990)
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