Well, it's not so awful as to stop you from proceeding! Otherwise, yeah,
it's pretty dismal. The only good part is you don't have to do it very often
(well, I did it twice in 3 weeks, then I figured out a way to remove the OD
without it). I'm not familiar with Porter's technique (my copy has been on
loan for 3 years!) but I don't think ovalling the holes would be fatal in
this instance, so long as you tightened them up securely.
My recollection is that one of the worst problems was wrench access, so you
might want to invest in a selection of thin and short box- and open-end
wrenches, with different head angles, to be sure you have something that
works. I think I resorted to using one of my Craftsman ignition wrenches (an
itty-bitty slim thing about 3 inches long) for some of the bolts. Of course,
this is an argument against ovalling the holes -- that you can't get a
decent amount of torque on the bolts to insure they're secure.
Otherwise, as Ed noted, start all the bolts first before tightening any of
them down (including the front motor mounts).
on 7/19/01 9:33 AM, Dr David McNaughton at david@mcna.demon.co.uk wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I am going to pull the engine and box on my 73 GT -am probably going
> to replace with a reconditioned engine and box from the MG Owners
> Club here in the UK ------ question is ------- how awful is the back
> mount to work on?
>
> I see in Porter a hint about extending the mounting holes - is this a
> good idea?
>
> Any advice - as always - very much appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> David
>
> 73 B GT (1800)
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
///
/// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
|