How would you recomend checking the journals then?
james
On Thu, Jun 21, 2001 at 02:29:41PM -0600, David Councill profoundly declared:
> Why would you think you would get flamed for this? You are almost right on.
> I don't see having the calipers as prerequisite. But like you said, its
> mostly labor and its not overly difficult. And you have the list resources.
> Plus with an adequate supply of the right kind of beer, you might even be
> able to find experienced listers nearby who could give you a hand.
>
> David
>
> At 02:21 PM 6/21/2001 -0600, James Nazarian Jr wrote:
> >I'm probably gonna get flamed for this, but if you have a set of calipers,
> >and
> >you haven't blown the engine you can do it yourself. In your favorite shop
> >manual you will be given the dimensions for the journals at original and at
> >all overbores. It will also give you the tolerance. Mic each journal on the
> >crank in at least three different places to see if they are within spec,
> >do the
> > same for the rods and the crank journals (on the block). If they are
> > all within
> >spec, replace the bearings and reassemble. If there is doubt, give a machine
> >shop the numbers and have them look.
> >
> >Ridge reaming and honing if necessary (you don't mention mileage) is real
> >eazy.
> >Typically if you didn't blow the engine up the rebuild process is pretty
>easy.
> >
> >At the very least, if you take the thing apart and take the parts to the
> >machine
> >shop they can do all the work and you can reassemble.
> >
> >The parts are real cheap, it is the labor that is a killer. The more
> >labor you
> >do, the less they bill for. Most of that $3000 is removal, disassembly,
> >reassembly, and refiting; all are very doable if you can follow shop manual
> >directions. I personally like Haynes, but I doubt it matters. At least read
> >the chapter on rebuilding the bottom end and see if it is a project you would
> >consider undertaking.
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