Put a voltmeter on the batt while motor running and make sure the
charging is working in situ. Do a continuity test on the ign
switch (or make sure you got zero voltage at the coil with the
switch off)
OTW, somewhere you have a failing component or another switch. Or
a hot wire partially/intermittently grounded not enough to blow
the fuse. Put an ammeter in series between the batt cable and batt
post. A multimeter (direct DC selection) might handle the current
if very small, but be careful not to overload the specified max
range.
If you have discharge there should be a reading. (without ammeter,
you might detect a small spark when touching the post). If so,
then start disconnecting (isolating) various electrical subsystems
till the discharge disappears.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
----- Original Message -----
From: <wtsnyder@juno.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>; <jhilderbran@home.com>
Sent: June 6, 2001 9:57 AM
Subject: Chronic Electrical Discharge
> My brother-in-law is a recent new owner of a nice little '71 MGB
> roadster. DPO told him at purchase that the car had a chronic
problem
> with battery discharge over time. Since purchase, b-i-l has
corrected a
> loose connection of the brown wire at the alternator which was
the
> suspected problem site. He has also installed a new battery and
had the
> alternator tested. It is charging properly. The ignition light
goes off
> within a few seconds after cranking as normal. I belive that
this car is
> does not have the old type voltage regulator.
>
> He is ready to shoot the car or sell it since it strands him at
> inopportune times. He has obviously not learned the trick of all
LBC
> owners, that is to park on an incline. Can anybody suggest to
him places
> to look for faults or slow trickle leaks or how to procede with
> diagnosis? Thanks in advance.
>
> If the problem is not correctable, I'll make him a nice low
offer!
> Bill Snyder
> '66 MGB
> '72 MGB-GT
///
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