For those who want to know:
(a) The bearings are 2 pc. 6202 zz c3
(b) To replace the bearings, you need to make (or borrow) some special tools,
- a 1/4" hex socket to remove the rear cover (not a common size here
in Europe)
- a device to hold the pulley (using the two 6 mm holes) while
removing the 22 mm A/F nut.
(Don't try to block the fan, it will only bend).
- a puller to get the bearings off.
(c) If you exchange the alternator for another one, you may have to adjust
/ shift the bush in
the rear eyelet. For an adjustment tool, a piece op pipe, internal
dia. slightly larger
than the outer dia. of the said bush with a (M8) bolt, nut and some
washers will do just fine.
(d) To replace the rear bearing, you need a soldering iron to temporarily
remove the axial commutator
slip ring like thingy at the end of the shaft.
(Q: Does anyone know if the melting point of this solder is higher
than of normal electrical
engineers' soldering wire? I had some difficulty removing the old
joint)
(e) Don't assume that a "rebuilt" alternator is the best option (as I did,
initially).
Years ago, I had a breakdown (no battery charging).
At the time, I just replaced the carbon brushes (they were the cause
of the problem),
but I noticed that the bearings were bad, too.
Now, anticipating a longer trip, I decided to hand over the alt.
for rebuilding.
The guy at the repair shop suggested that I, instead, would exchange
the alt.
for a rebuilt one he had in stock. So I did.
For about $ 65 he handed me a rebuilt alt, shining like new.
I asked him what the deposit was for the old one that I would have to
hand in ($16)
and, then, fortunately, I decided to keep the old one, too.
When fitting the rebuilt one last Fri evening, I found that the
rebuilt one was no good.
(will give the repair shop a VERY nasty phone call coming Monday
morning... :-(
So I decided to rebuild the old one after all.
It wasn't that difficult after all.
So now the old one is in again, working just fine.
Bert
1970 MGB
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