I find levering between the drum and back-plate while tapping the end of the
axle works well in shifting reluctant drums. Nothing should fall out, if it
does you have problems. Take particular care in noting how the shoes and
springs are arranged before dismantling, but bear in mind a PO may not have
put them back correctly at some time in the past. Check for leaks from
slave cylinders and axle oil seals. The shoe steady-pins that go through
the back-plate can be a bit of a pig until you learn to push down on the
retaining washer and spring from the front then turn the pin from the back,
rather than trying to both push and twist the retaining washer. Clean and
lubricate the pivot in the handbrake lever and the cable clevis pin and make
sure both move freely. The slots in the handbrake lever can wear such that
the lever behind the backplate has to be pulled a long way before the shoes
contact the drum even when correctly adjusted, this reduces handbrake
efficiency. You may have to fill the slots with some weld so that the shoes
contact when the lever behind the backplate is parallel to the backplate and
not pulled away from it. I also put a very thin smear of grease on every
metal-to-metal surface. I do all this every 3000 miles, learned in some 30
years of BMC rear brakes.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bud Krueger <bkrueger@ici.net>
To: Lani Spahr <lani_spahr@agilent.com>
Cc: mgs <mgs@autox.team.net>; mgt <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2001 12:10 AM
Subject: Re: Brake drums
> > Do I need a special tool for removing the drums that attach to the wheel
or
> > will a generic drum puller work?
> > Are there any things that can jump out and run and hide when the drums
come
> > off?
> > Any other thing I should know or look for when inspecting the brakes and
> > shoes?
///
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