Excuse my ignorance, but what is a DPO type fix?
Repairing such a small area could be problematic for a flanging tool. You might
have
to cut out a large hole in order to gain access for the tool. You might just as
well
weld a piece on the top of the floor after cleaning and removing rust from the
surrounding area of course.
I repaired my Olds by using an after market floor pan. I used a flanging tool
that attaches to
an air hammer. I used the Cleco fasteners
to locate the pan while I used my Lincoln 100 wire welder to emulate spotwelds.
I also replaced some MGA sills using the same technique. Cleco fasteners and
Vise
Grip "C" clamps
are the way to go. I also I covered everything with epoxy primer before assembly
in case the car
ever goes north. The wire welder left the primer alone while a
torch would have burnt it off.
Robert Eiffert wrote:
> The driver side has rusted out around the seat mount nuts. Approx. fender
> washer size to solid metal. (and no, I didn't try that DPO type fix).
>
> Would cutting out a rectangular section, then use a flanging tool (like
> Eastwood sells) and brazing in a piece of same thickness sheet be the right
> way to fix?
>
> Seems like a good way to relearn some of the shop class skills. And get the
> 65 B back on the road sooner than replacing the whole pan. I haven't found
> any other rust in structural places.
>
> Bob Eiffert
> Vancouver WA
--
?
___[|]___
(- o)
/------------------------ooO--(_)--Ooo--------/
/ M. Frankford /
/ martin@virtual-motors.com /
/ http://www.virtual-motors.com /
/______________________________________Oooo.__/
.oooO ( )
( ) ) /
\ ( (_/
\_)
"vote early and vote often"
Major Daley of Chicago
///
/// mgs@autox.team.net mailing list
/// (If they are dupes, this trailer may also catch them.)
|