> So what happens if you run a 25D on an 18V engine?
>
As in all life. Everything is inter-related and one question creates
another.
What 25D? 18V engine with what carburation?
If it is an early 25D dist. connected up to the vacuum port of the manifold
then the characteristics get kinda wonky and you will not be a happy MG
owner.
If it is a 25D off an HIF equipped car, then it should work ok if timed to
HIF spec.
Once you start mixing components up you really have to understand how the
engine works to determine what changes need to be made to balance the
system. To be honest, that is beyond my level of understanding, experience,
time or test equipment. But I have fun wandering around in the dark
thinking that I have found a better way.
My suggestion is that you stick with a tried and tested system unless you
have the money and time to change to a different known system that works
better.
If you have a late model car with stock carb, keep the stock distributor and
cam. The factory spent a lot of time and trouble to improve torque so that
the car would be drivable with all the extra weight. Top end HP went down,
that is the trade off.
If you can change carburation and remove smog equipment, then aim for the
63-71 spec. and remove as much weight from the car as possible. Any other
changes and you are on your own in the land of cubic $ and varying results.
I think Larry Colen of this list had a perfect example when he spent a lot
of money and time on a Dynamometer looking at the results of installing
modified components. There was no clear road to increased performance, each
change required major retuning of all related components to achieve any
gain.
Best of luck
Kelvin.
Still learning lots every day.
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