First,
Thanks to all who replied. There were some good hints.
However, it was NOT the spark as I first suspected. It apparently
is/was a fuel problem as others mentoned. I also began to suspect the fuel
system when
the plugs that I removed/replaced were not wet with gasoline,
nor was there a heavy raw gas smell in the exhaust. So I decided to
check the fuel system.
The electric fuel pump seemed to be working as it was making the
proper noise. To verfy this, I began to remove the rubber gas line
from a device that is bolted to the engine compartment and
is located between the clear fuel filter and
the carb. It appears to be a pressure regulator of some sort.
CAN SOMEONE VERIFY THIS ?
When I removed the gas line, the gasoline squirted out under pressure.
A good sign, I guess. The interesting part was that this device had
a plunger-type device on the top. It reminded me of a priming
device. So I reconnected the gas line, depressed the plunger a few times,
and tried to start the car. It coughed on the first try, and started
on the second ! Oil pressure came right up to 75 PSI.
Now the not-so-good news. Apparently the automatic choke is stuck as the
engine
went to 1500 RPM and the to 2900. I could not "knock" off the choke
with the throttle. Is this normal for the Z-S carb ? Will a little choke
cleaner fix it ?
Thanks for any help,
Gene 80 B
At 08:23 AM 3/12/01 EST, JERTIGGER2@cs.com wrote:
>In a message dated 3/11/2001 8:57:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>eugeneb@nni.com writes:
>
><< Is this type of
> failure indicitive of
> a bad ballast resistor ? Maybe a coil that has opened up although I wo >>
>
>If the ballast resistor is bad the engine will start but the moment you put
>the ignition switch in the normal drive position the engine will die, restart
>and the same thing will happen again.
>
>Jerry Rein
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