my heart goes out to you.
mine had a half uninstalled second electronic ignition to contend with.
There are enough metal-metal connections that the fuel pump should be
grounded through the car body, though not exactly the safest!
Well i personally find fixing electrics the least daunting. it's just down
to being methodical and patient.
good luck
oh, incidentally why were the electrics fried in the first place?
cheers
Joe
___________________________
Dr. Joseph Garner
University of California
Department of Animal Science
One Shields Avenue
Davis
CA 95616
USA
Phone: (530) 752 1253
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Waringa [mailto:kwaringa@dynsys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2001 5:18 AM
> To: MG
> Subject: I am on a Quest
>
>
> It's me against the wire cutting DPO and the Prince of
> Darkness, but I will
> prevail.
>
> Some of you may recall I asked about some wiring questions
> for my newly
> acquired 73 MGB the other day. Well I think I have replaced
> all the burned
> and cut wires in the engine bay so last night I decided to bypass the
> seatbelt system to see if the engine will turn over without
> all the smoke.
> I removed the center console and found the DPO had been there with his
> trusty wire cutters as well. I should have known all
> wouldn't be well under
> the dash by the voltage stabilizer hanging down with the
> original connectors
> cut off and extra 12 inch wires on it so it would almost rest
> on the floor.
> Most of the wires behind the console had been cut as well,
> some taped up
> some just left. I traced and repaired most of them and then
> jumpered the
> red/white to the yellow/pink so now the engine turns over
> without worrying
> about the seat belt (or as one person has on their web site "the bum
> detector") circuit. I then looked under the dash by the
> steering wheel.
> Another mess. I did repair a couple wires that had been cut
> are stripped to
> add a second wire to.
>
> Now the moment of truth, will it turn over with out smoke?
> YES!!!!! Start,
> not yet, still no fuel pump clicks. I turned on the lights
> and there was
> light, outside the car anyway. The headlights and tail
> lights came on,
> without smoke thank you. No dash lights and no gauges, but
> at least I'm
> making progress. I looked at the Haynes manual to see how to test the
> voltage stabilizer and it says it must be mounted and level.
> I guess that's
> a pretty good reason it doesn't appear to be working while
> laying crookedly
> on the floor. Didn't feel like tackling behind the dash much
> last night so
> I just crawled under to check the fuel pump quickly. Yup,
> two wires going
> too it, no melted insulation, so far so good. The white wire
> is connected,
> but not the black, it' s just hanging. Well I'll just hook
> it up and see
> what happens. WRONG. The negative terminal on the fuel pump
> is missing.
> Oh well, that's another night's problem. It was time for a
> wee dram of
> scotch, I felt I deserved it.
>
> The quest to restore power to my car will continue, I will succeed.
>
> Anyone tell me how to check the voltage stabilizer? Tracing
> the circuit on
> the Bently schematic, it appears both the gauges and the dash
> lights run off
> the stabilizer. However, the Haynes schematic has the dash
> lights coming
> off a different circuit and not related to the voltage stabilizer.
>
> After I get the electric's working I need to spin the engine
> over to do a
> compression test and see what condition it really is in.
>
> To be continued,
>
> Ken Waringa
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