I didn't have to re-drill the holes but if I did I would've painted round
the edges first in body-colour. Then when that was dry used a soft washer
under each post, dip the business end in Waxoyl, and paint the underside
with Waxoyl before fitting the metal washer and nut. Similar for the hook
plates by the B-post before rivetting. There is a fair bit of tug on those
posts when under way, I would've thought, the hood develops quite a lot of
internal air pressure. Nothing to stop you using a large outer diameter
washer with the correct size hole underneath - concourse not-withstanding.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: R. Martin Rogovein <rmartin@yedtech.co.il>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 05, 2000 12:48 PM
Subject: Soft top fittings
> Well, guys, it's December in Tel Aviv, which means we may get some rain in
a
> month or so.
> SO, I'm trying to fit my new softtop.
> The DPO bondoed-up all the holes for the lift-a-dot posts, as well as
those
> for the other snaps and clips.
> I have located the holes (from underneath) and am prepared to drill them
out
> to install the two rear clips and 8 posts, as well as rivet on those funny
> little side clips (behind the doors).
> I have two questions:
> 1) After drilling the holes, what should I do to them to prevent rust from
> getting under the paint?
> 2) I can't tell if the bondo is only filling the holes, or if there was
also
> some corrosion on the panels that the top snaps to. Should I try to put a
> flat washer under each post (in addition to or instead of the std. lock
> washers that are shown in Haynes) so that I have a little more backing
> material? How much strain is really on these posts when the top is up and
> the car is in motion? (I've owned the car for 6 months, and I only put
the
> top up when I park it - one of the benefits of this part of the world)
> Still topless,
> R. Martin Rogovein
> 1970 roadster
> Tel Aviv, Israel.
> rmartin@yedtech.co.il
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