On the choke, you can remove the air filters, hook the choke back up (using
the bolts from the air filter). You can determine the full choke travel by
pulling the choke all the way and see how far it pulls the jets down. You
can then compare that to the maximum distance by pulling up on the choke
linkage manually instead of by using the cable. You can then adjust the
linkage to make sure both jets are down all the way when the choke is fully
engaged.
The idle sticks because that linkage is sticking or you don't have enough
tension on the return springs. You may have to loosen all eight nuts that
hold the carbs on to the intake manifold, center the linkage, and then
tighten all eight bolts evenly. Alternately, at the end of both sides of
the linkage are the parts that connect to the carbs - make sure they is a
slight gab between them and the carbs so that it doesn't stick.
Hopefully I've described the parts adequately. I have seen and fixed both
problems you describe.
David Councill
67 BGT
dead 71 BGT
At 01:47 PM 10/31/2000 -0500, Phillips, Frank wrote:
>List,
>
>I have fitted the new carbs to my 68B. The model is AUD 278 and they replace
>the AUD 265's. They work great (almost). I have two questions:
>
>1) Choke: I've attempted to set the choke per Haynes manual but still seem
>to run lean when cold. The car kick but after it get warm and the choke is
>off. How far should the jet drop when the choke is pulled? I've set the fast
>idle to 1000rpm as the manual states, what should the rpm be when the choke
>is fully pulled?
>
>2) I just returned from a wonderful lunch time drive! Went about 20 miles
>and when returning to work the idle began to stick. A quick slip of the
>throttle pedal and the idle would return to normal (900 - 1000 rpm). Any
>ideas what to look at? This only started after a long drive, all worked fine
>for the first 18 miles.
>
>Thanks for the help. I plan to post pictures of the new and old carbs on my
>web site in a few days.
>
>Frank Phillips
>1968 MGB
>Email: fwp@ufl.edu
>
>
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