Some of you guru's help me here please...
I'm pulling the engine out of my 73 B roadster this weekend to begin a
complete rebuild, with a "When in doubt, replace it" mentality.
Based on what I've read here recently, I'm planning to ditch the single DGV
that's in it now and replace with dual HIF4's. Standard head with three
angle valve job, perhaps 0.060 over (still havent decided).
REASON: Dual DCOE's lose power a the bottom end, and only gain at high rpm's
I dont think are going to occur that often in a daily driver. DGV's dont
seem to be hugely liked here, and almost 100% of the responses I saw said
that properly configured SU's are better. the HS6 SU's suffered from the
same topheavy problem (According to the Burgess tuning book) Also Crossflow
heads suffered from the same problems at a high dollar point.
Did I miss anything?
OK, the next think suggested to me has been "Take that bad boy to 1967
specs."
What exactly does that mean? I live in Ohio where any car older than 25
years isnt emissions checked. What exactly does 1967 spec mean? What should
be removed? what changed? what added?
The block and head going to a good shop to get ported, polished, tweaked,
massaged, what have you. I fully expect to buy new pistons, valves, valve
guides, springs, bearings, etc.
So I guess the question is, If you had a 73 B engine out and apart, getting
machined, with a slew of parts getting swapped out, what would you change?
This car is to be my daily driver and weekend stress reliever. I dont plan
to race it on track, maybe a road rally if I got the urge. I'm not
interested in concours at all (Hence the Fiero Seats and planned 60's grille
and full chrome bumper overriders.) I just want a good balance of
driveability with that elusive and undefinable "Zip".
________________________________________________________________________
| Chris Thompson ct@cthompson.com |
| 1973 MGB http://cthompson.com/mg/ |
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