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Re: Oh Sh*^

To: "Trevor Boicey" <tboicey@brit.ca>
Subject: Re: Oh Sh*^
From: Larry Macy <macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu>
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 22:34:51 -0400

>>>>On 9/22/00 9:05 PM so and so (Trevor Boicey) said. (And I quote:)

>Larry Macy wrote:
>> Ok, now I am really confused. I drove the Midget home from the train
>> station and immediately ran in and got a magnet. I pulled the dipstick
>> and it is clean - no metal, no nothing, just oil a bit low.
>
>  Did you originally see the metal on the dipstick?

Yes
>
>  Is the tube around the dipstick intact? Any chance it is coming
>apart and you got it on the dipstick last time you pulled it?
Nope, first thing I checked. The metal was in the oil, not on the part of 
the dipstick that is above the oil.
>
>> Now I have noticed in the last few weeks
>> a tendency to shudder at releasing the clutch when pulling away from a
>> stop. I believe that this may be due to a thrust bearing being bad.
>
>  This is very easy to check, and should be checked anyways. Lie
>down under the car, and use a pry bar to push and pull the crank
>pulley forward and back. It it moves more than JUST noticeable,
>then start to worry.
>
>  The thrust washer wear can get pretty bad without serious
>damage, the only real problems occur when they wear so much that
>it falls into the sump, and your crank is allowed to move
>around and destroy itself. That's what you can check with the
>pry bar.
Sounds like a good, simple way to check, was planning on trying to find a 
dial indicator.
>
>> Also I saw that the oil pressure that had been running about 45 -50 lbs
>> at cold idle was now running about 70 lbs when I left the train station.
>> And almost 90 at about 3500 rpm.
>
>  Did you change oil types? Or perhaps it's colder there
>than it was when you mentally recorded the "lower" values?
>
>  Oil viscosity and temperate can make oil pressure go all
>over, as long as it's above minimum I wouldn't worry.
No I did not change oil type, been using 20-50 Mobil One for quite a 
while.
>
>> 2) Order new bearings w/ thrust washer. (I have been told I can do this
>> with the engine in the car and I have done bearing swaps in a Waukesha
>> engine in the past)
>
>  You'll need to open the bottom end up before you
>can order these, to be sure you are ordering the right
>size. Unless you were the last person to rebuild that
>engine, you don't know whether you want standard, -0.010,
>-0.020, etc.
I rebuilt this engine 12 or 13 years ago. Bearings were still standard 
then, so still standard now. Unless the crank needs a grind. Also I have 
been building engines, off and on, for nearly 25 years, so that part is 
nothing new to me. Just don't want to, if I don't have to. Probably gonna 
have to tho. :-(
>
>-- 
Larry

Larry Macy
78 Midget

Keep your top down and your chin up.

Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
System Manager/Administrator
Neuropsychiatry Section
Department of Psychiatry
University of Pennsylvania
3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates
Philadelphia, PA 19104

 Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a 
question and you're a fool for the rest of your life. 


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