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Carburetor substitutions

To: "MG List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, "Spridgets" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Carburetor substitutions
From: "Eddie Sheffield" <ecsheffield@erols.com>
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 23:24:55 -0400
Hi all,

I have a question about SU carburetor substitutions. I have a 1971 Midget
that has a really weird Carter carburetor setup that I really need to
change. When I got the car (last week) a couple of SUs on a manifold were
thrown in. But when I started looking at them, they didn't seem right for
the Midget. It has a two piece heat shield, and the spacing on the carb side
is wider than the Midget shield I have, although the head side is the same
spacing as the Midget shield (haven't checked to see if this is the right
spacing for the 1275 head.) Anyway, in a nutshell these carbs have a tag on
them - "AUD 69F." The Haynes SU book and a web site I found
(http://www.burlen.co.uk/ - very handy site!) identify these as fitting a
1962-1963 MG 1100. The correct ones for the Midget are AUD 327. The Burlen
site gives lots of info on specific parts, and there seems to be very little
variation between these. One of the float lids is different - each has only
one connection on each with a "Y" in the fuel line. The dampers are also
different. The only other difference listed is the needles. Same service and
rebuild kits (what's the diff? Burlen site lists them separately with diff.
part nos.)

So, what I'm wondering is would there be any problem with just rebuilding
and installing these carbs? I have the correct intake manifold and
heatshield. I'm guessing the linkages between them will be all wrong -
probably too long. I haven't started dismantling them yet, but they will
need a rebuild. Pistons were pretty tight, but a little WD-40 loosened them
up nicely. Needles look pretty nasty, though, so will need to replace them
as well. Otherwise they look pretty good. Any advice? Considering what the
car is running with now, I'm sure they can be made to work. I assume the
float lid won't really matter. How about the damper and needle? Are they
sort of "matched" so that a given needle works as expected only when using
the correct damper? Actually one of the damper rods is a little bend, so I
probably need to replace it anyway.

I think I may be answering my own questions here, but does anyone have
anything to tell me that I might need to consider?

Thanks!

Eddie
1971 Midget



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