Whichever angle it comes from make sure it has a clear path to the linkages
*when under tension*. It is possible to route it to have a clear path when
fully home, but as you pull it out the sheath can move and foul something
else. The other thing to check is the angle the lever on the carb linkage
makes with the cable - when the choke is half-way out it should be a
right-angle. If it only makes a right-angle when fully out it will be
stiffer at the start of its travel. That and checking the cable and sheath
are sound and have no broken strands or corrosion, and are lubricated.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: xirias <xirias@hol.gr>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 01, 2000 8:22 AM
Subject: choke cable trouble
> The problem with my choke cable is that it is extremely stiff to pull
> out. The linkages are very easy to "lift" by hand and the
> bracket/heatshield is what the book says it should be. The cable itself
> is not new but it is very easy to pull when not attached to the linkage
> even if I twist it many times.
>
> The cable sheath ends at the bracket and the cable itself continues
> downwards and attaches to the choke linkage via trunnion & screw. There
> appears not to be any restriction at all.
>
> My 1973 car is LHD and has twin HIF4 carburettors. What could be the
> problem? I am not sure the cable is going into the engine compartment
> through the right grommet as there exist two of them: one to the right
> of the large rubber plug for the master cylinders and another one behind
> the brake pedal. It's through the latter one my choke cable passes.
>
> Finally does it matter what "direction" the cable comes to the bracket
> from? I mean is it important to make sure it comes from the rocker cover
> (and not the air filters) to hit the bracket and go down to the linkage?
>
> Evangelos
> 73 BGT
>
>
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