Paul,
I did this too. I try to check the archive prior to doing things I've never
done before. I was having trouble keeping the nut square. The 3/4" socket
fit around the dome on the nut and held it great. The socket also gave more
beef to hold on to. BTW, great web site! You've been a big help!
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net
To: Phillips, Frank; mgs@autox.team.net
Sent: 08/07/2000 14:24
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure Relief Valve
The other way is to fit the nut without the spring, then slowly unscrew
the
nut until the threads just lose engagement Mark nut and block, and you
have
a starting point for when you are battling with the spring, and only a
small
amount of rotation whilst compressing the spring will get the threads
started.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Frank <fwp@ufl.edu>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2000 8:42 PM
Subject: Oil Pressure Relief Valve
> Listers,
>
> I just replaced my oil pressure relief valve and after a very long
effort
> found an idea I would like to share with all who may need to do this
in
the
> future.
>
> I had the carbs off as I was doing a rebuild and this gave a level of
access
> to the oil pressure valve. After remove the old I stated to replace
the
new
> and was having a devil of a time trying to get the nut started. I end
up
> using a 3/4" socket behind the nut to push it into place with my right
hand
> and this allowed my other hand to be used to start threading the nut.
This
> worked much better then using my bare hand to try to fit the nut, the
spring
> is too strong to control it and thread it with one bare hand. The
socket
> helped to square the nut to the hole. Hope this makes an easier job
for
some
> other listers...
>
> Later...
>
> Frank Phillips
> fwp@ufl.edu
> 68 MGB
>
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