Rick:
Rather than visually inspecting every inch of the circuits you are
talking about, a simple 12 V test light or voltmeter can speed up the
process. For instance you might clip one lead of the test light to ground (a
solid connection to the car chassis) and the other lead to the hot side of
the brake light switch (green wire). This should be 'hot' all the time (with
the ignition on) and the test light should come on. If it does this
eliminates the fuse and the wiring all the way back to the battery. If it
doesn't, clip on to the fuse the green wires go to. If one side is hot (test
light glows) and the other side isn't, the fuse is open. If one side of the
brake switch is hot and the other isn't while the brake is pushed, then
either the switch is bad or not being activated properly. By using this
technique with the car's wiring diagram on hand, one can pin point problems
very quickly.
In a message dated 8/4/00 2:05:53 AM !!!First Boot!!!, djw69@idt.net writes:
> Ok.....I know the Lucas electrical systems cause many headaches, so prior
> to me cleaning every connector and tracing wires I figured I would ask a
> few questions. First I have a 71 MBG Roadster. Headlights/Taillights/side
> markers and reverse lamps all work fine. However, the Break lights and
> Turn signals do not work at all. I have checked the Fuse and that is fine.
> Does anyone have any idea what it could be? What are the first 3 or 4
> things I should check?
>
> Thanks
Bob Donahue (Still stuck in the '50s)
EMAIL - BOBMGT@AOL.COM
52 MGTD - under DIY restoration NEMGTR #11470
71 MGB - AMGBA #96-12029, NAMGBR #7-3336
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