Geoffrey,
If you have to take your car through an environmental test, just replace of
fix the hoses or replace the charcoal canister if that is what it needs.
That particular system doesn't take power away from the engine. I had to go
through the bi-annual test in Oregon until my 72 B was 20 years old. After
that I simply removed the air pump, air frame, gulp valve and plugged the
holes. My car has more power and runs better. I did leave the evaporative
loss system (what you are talking about) on my car as it rarely gives me any
grief. I believe several other people on the list have done essentially the
same thing to cars with air pumps.
Good luck,
Dave 72 B
-----Original Message-----
From: Geoffrey Gallaway <geoffeg@sloth.org>
To: Garner, Joseph P. <JPGarner@UCDavis.Edu>
Cc: 'mgs@autox.team.net ' <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 22, 2000 9:43 PM
Subject: RE: Gurgling Sound coming from back of car
>Ok, so I realize what I am about to suggest is "illegal" and that I could
>go to prison for the rest of my life for altering the emissions system...
>
>If I just de-attach both hoses from the Odd Thing in the back of the car,
>connect them with a small section of pipe (obviously bypassing the Odd
>Thing), will I be allright in that department?
>
>AFAIK, the fuel cap is venting but hey, I'll replace is with a new venting
>one just for the fun of it. The spring on the clutch peddal popped off
>tonight and although I can't feel much of a difference, it wouldnt hurt.
>
>The car never fails to start (sometimes it can take quite a bit of
>cranking, 10 or 20 seconds) but it does get worse after I have been
>driving it and when its hot out...
>
>How do I remove the other emissions systems on the car? :)
>
>Geoff
>
>This one time, at band camp, Garner, Joseph P. wrote:
>
>> Hi Geoff,
>>
>> Aha! One I actually know the answer to!
>>
>> Let me guess. The car won't start after you have been driving it. The
>> problem is a lot worse in hot weather, or if the car is left in the sun?
>>
>> It's that bloody silly smog system again. Unburnt petrol vapour is
adsorbed
>> in the mysterious absorbtion canister thingy (or pair, depending on
model),
>> and supposedly returned to the carb to be burnt, or back to the fuel tank
>> via the strange little tank on the inside right of the boot.
>>
>> If you have any kind of blockage/impediment in the fuel return line, then
>> the car vapour-locks, and won't start. These blockages can be of many
kinds,
>> including
>>
>> -a blocked/broken vent cap on the tank (you do have a venting cap on the
>> tank, rather than a non-venting DPO replacement?).
>>
>> -crud in the vapour line between the fuel tank, and the funny tank in the
>> boot, or crud in the little tank (sorry no manual, can't remember the
proper
>> terms), or crud in the line between tank and resorbtion canister.
>>
>> -rotted out hoses (petrol vapour does bad things to rubber over the
years)
>> that have either collapsed on the inside or kinked. This was my problem.
>> 10cents for a new bit of hose, and i NEVER had the car fail to start
again
>> (well from this problem anyway). There is hose in the boot, and hose
running
>> from the absorbtion canister to the vapour line itself. The latter has to
>> make a sharp short turn, so i'd check that first.
>>
>> IMHO, YMMV, etc, my advice would be to first check for kinked/rotted
hoses
>> in this system. replace as necessary. check the vent cap. If these aren't
>> your primary problem, at least you have cleared up any secondary
confusing
>> problems. Next time the car fails to start, take the petrol cap of the
fuel
>> tank, if you get a big hiss of pressure this is probably the problem...
>> replace the cap and try again. if it starts now, then you know that your
>> problem is probably the cap. There are lots of places along the system
where
>> you can unhook a hose, allow any built-up pressure to escape, reattach
the
>> hose, (ALLOWING ANY PETROL VAPOUR TO DISAPPATE FIRST OF COURSE), and try
>> starting the car. this should allow you to physically locate the section
of
>> the system which is blocked. If it appears to be a section of vapour
return
>> line, then disattach the line at BOTH ends and blow it through with
>> compressed air. Take great care not to blow compressed air through any
line
>> attached to the fuel pump or the fuel pump will die.
>>
>> I hope that helps... as with any work on the fuel system be extremely
>> careful with petrol vapour and sparks etc.
>>
>> incidentally what are the symptoms of buggered adsorbtion pads... Max,
>> Laurie, Ed? No obvious jokes please.... that's my department!
>>
>> ;-)
>>
>> cheers
>>
>> Dr. Joe
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Geoffrey Gallaway
>> To: mgs@autox.team.net
>> Sent: 7/22/00 11:25 AM
>> Subject: Gurgling Sound coming from back of car
>>
>> Some people may know of my fuel starvation problems with my 70 BGT.
>> While
>> sitting in a parking lot, waiting for someone today, it died as usual. I
>> didn't attempt to turn it back on since I didn't know how long it would
>> be
>> till the person arrived. About a minute after it had died, I heard a
>> gurgling sound come from the back right of the car for a few seconds.
>> Once
>> the person arrived and I started to drive, the fuel starvation problem
>> was
>> absolutely horrible, dying at almost every light and taking a few
>> seconds
>> to start again. Now, I know there is a large metal cannister in the
>> right
>> back of the car (where the gurgling sound came from). What does this
>> cannister do and what might it have to do with my car dying and why
>> would
>> it make a gurgling sound? If it is the cause of the problem, can I
>> remove
>> it, fix it or do I need a new one?
>>
>> Thanks for the advice,
>> Geoff
>>
>>
>
>--
>Geoffrey Gallaway || Violence is only for those who have run out of good
>geoffeg@sloth.org || ideas.
>D e v o r z h u n || -- Doug
>
>
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