----- Original Message -----
From: M. Edwin Vaughan <edvaughan@juno.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2000 2:18 AM
Subject: Start but no run, part V
> Hello Folks,
>
> Well, I went about checking voltage on the various wires connecting to
> the ignition relay and here is what I got:
>
> N = 12.75V
> W = 8.83 -11.20V
> WN = nothing
>
> The W wire has a WN quick-connected into it (Augggggghhh the DPO strikes
> again). This WN was cut off at the fuse box and spliced into the W. I
> followed my wiring diagram and found that this WN wire runs to an in line
> fuse (comes out as a G wire) and then on to the "radiator cooling fan
> thermostat". I am trying to figure out why the WN wire was cut at the
> fuse box.
Obviously the relay failed for the PO and he simply spliced the output wire
(white/brown) into the input wire (white) to bypass the relay, incidentally
putting all the electrical load into your ignition switch. This is why the
voltage on the white is as low as it is. This will be reducing the system
voltage throught the ignition circuits and making things like heater fan,
cooling fan(s) and flashers run much slower than they should.
> Also, I noticed that the guy had cut the wires to the "radiator
> cooling fan thermostat" and when he reconnected them (with crimp butt
> connectors) he got the BG and G wires crossed.
Electrically this doesn't matter since the thermostatic switch is just a
two-wire device, but speaks volumes (if any more were needed) about the PO.
> Plus (Yes, there's more!),
> there is a mass of silicone around the "radiator cooling fan thermostat"
> and the DPO scribbled in the owners manual "Do Not remove" and drew an
> arrow to the "radiator cooling fan thermostat".
Fan stats can pop out of the rad under high temp conditions, later ones had
a spring clip to hold them in.
> However, I digress. I
> assume that the changing voltage on the W wire is my problem and as soon
> as I can get the voltage to be a constant 12V then my car will start AND
> run.
Replace the relay, reconnect the white/brown to the output contact instead
of the input winding, and your voltage on the white will rise to 12v as if
by magic. Whether that alone will allow your car to start and run is
another matter. Probably not since the car has presumably been running at
some time in your ownership? And the mis-wired relay was like it when you
bought it? Therefore there must be something else wrong. 'Starts but won't
run' really has to be a break in the white/brown - harness ballast -
white/light-green - coil circuit. The white/light-green is extended to the
starter solenoid which provides an alternative 12v to boost the coil during
cranking. In your case it is the only supply to the coil, which is why the
engine will start but cuts out as soon as you release the key to the 'Run'
position.
If you are lucky it will be a bad connection where the white/brown for the
harness ballast joins the the white/brown from the relay at the fuse block,
or where the white/light-green connects to the coil, or the conductor broken
inside the insulation close to these points. In these cases retermination
to a new connector will get you going again. If you are unlucky it will be
a connection inside the loom tape.
PaulH.
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