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Re: Problem with starter motor?

To: <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
Subject: Re: Problem with starter motor?
From: "1979MGB" <1979mgb@vixa.voyager.net>
Date: Tue, 18 Jul 2000 14:57:50 -0400
Paul,

Since you did such a nice job with the John's post I thought I'd give you
another question.  I just got back from an 1800 mile round trip from MI to
MN and back.  Near the end of the trip - last few days I noticed the
ignition light stayed on longer than before after starting.  One day it
would stay on until I increased the RPM for awhile (even though it was
idling at 1000).  The belt is tight so it doesn't appear its a slipping
thing.  Since I got back this appears to have gone away and the ignition
light goes right off as soon as the engine starts.

Is there anything going out that I should watch for or just the Prince of
Darkness tricking me?  (The alternator has less than 5k miles on it since
being rebuilt in one of John Twists tech classes in Feb 99).

If you can think of anything I'd really appreciate it.

Denny


-----Original Message-----
From: paul.hunt1@virgin.net <paul.hunt1@virgin.net>
To: John Middlesworth <middlesworth@worldnet.att.net>; mgs@autox.team.net
<mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, July 18, 2000 2:33 PM
Subject: Re: Problem with starter motor?


>The ignition warning light acts as the 'primer' for the alternator to start
>charging.  If that light is not working the alt is almost certainly not
>being primed properly, and although they are usually self-exciting once the
>engine is revved to about 2000 rpm it is possible that the battery is not
>being properly charged.  Oh, and it should light when you first turn the
>ignition on, i.e. before the turn the key to 'Start'.
>
>Watching a light e.g. interior light when you turn the key to 'Start' will
>tell you if the battery is flat or if you have bad connections in the heavy
>current circuit, but only a voltmeter on the battery posts (not the
>connectors) will tell you which.  However a broken engine or transmission
>ground strap will affect cranking without dimming the lights.  If it is
>battery or connections there is usually enough power to elicit a 'clonk'
>from the solenoid/starter, or possibly a chattering solenoid, unless the
>battery is very flat/connections are very bad in which case you wouldn't
get
>bright headlights.
>
>Given the above it is probabably a failure in the start circuitry - the
>ignition key puts out 12v on a white/red which operates the starter relay,
>which puts out 12v on a white/brown to operate the solenoid.  The relay
>operates with a click, and the solenoid with a much louder click.  The
relay
>is usually high up on the RHS inner wing near the fuse-block.
>
>PaulH.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: John Middlesworth <middlesworth@worldnet.att.net>
>To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2001 1:12 AM
>Subject: Problem with starter motor?
>
>
>> I need help analyzing a problem.  My 72 MGB suddenly refuses to start.  I
>> can hear the fuel pump working and (perhaps) a single click from the
>starter
>> solenoid, but not a bit of movement of the flywheel.  Here are the
>relevant
>> facts:
>> 1. The headlights are bright enough to indicate a good charge on the
>> battery.
>> 2. The red ignition light on the dash which normally lights up when the
>car
>> is starting never lights.
>> 3. In attempting to remove the starter motor I accidently hit a live wire
>> (battery not properly disconnected) and heard the starter gear whirl
>around,
>> so the motor's not entirely dead.
>>
>> Does it sound like I need a new motor, or perhaps a new solenoid, or
>should
>> I check something else?
>>
>> John Middlesworth
>>
>>
>
>


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