Wow. Thanks for the extremely thorough description. Better than a Haynes
manual! Good luck with the rest of it.
BTW the transmission mount rubber always seems to be melted. One theory
is that it dissolves in contact with oil. And there is always plenty of
that beneath an MGB!
James Porco had this to say:
>This is part two of the clutch replacement. Very Long. Delete now if no
>interest. . .
>-----------------------------------------------------
>
>I took a 30-minute rest and made sure from atop and underneath all bolts
>were free. Now with the 2X4 under the transmission I slowly rotated the
>trans. It took a few CAREFUL pryís on my rolling crowbar to ease the Trans
>from the engine. Like I said I had comfortable room underneath so I took
>my time. When the trans was apart about one inch from the engine I
>manually slide it back further. With both hands on the trans. I slowly
>rotated it and slide it back about another 2 inches. About 4 inches was
>as far as I could get it to go back. The problem was that the top cover
>of the gear shifter was hitting the sidewall of the Trans tunnel and I was
>about 1/4 to 1/2 inch short of space to be able to rotate it fully to
>slide it back. The problem was that I could not get to the bolts to
>unscrew it. ARGGG. With several very forceful turns I tried to get the
>Trans to roll past the sticking point, but it just wouldn't roll much
>further than about a 1/4 transmission turn. And to ma!
>ke matters worse at the front of the Trans where the round egg like shape
>is, prevented me from being able to force it back without rolling it at
>least the one-quarter turn. To say the fit is tight is an understatement.
> All I needed was about 1/2 inch more space on the passenger side of the
>transmission tunnel and I would be home free! AARRRGGGG!!!
>
>After about 40 minutes of force, finesse, grease, and several reviews of
>books and drawings, I decided to get the clutch plate out and think about
>this further. It was somewhere about 4:00 at this point. I follow
>procedure to unbolt the clutch plate and it released. At this point I had
>the jack with the 2X4 lumber under the back 1/3 of the trans. THANKFULLY.
>When I released the last bolt of the clutch plate, the Trans dropped. I
>guess the center rod was still in the clutch plate. I was able to gain
>control of the Trans with one hand while holding on to the clutch plate
>with the other. No body/finger damage, I'm just glad that I decided to
>wear thin gardening gloves and this provided the grip I needed. I was
>able to get the jack directly under the center of the Trans and remove all
>the clutch parts. I then decided not to wrestle the Trans and let it rest
>down on the ground. I did not want to pull it out completely so I just
>let it rest where it was.
>
>MANY MANY Surprises were to come. I found that the release bearing was not
>just bad, it was in about 20-30 small and large pieces with distorted
>metal and spring parts, YES spring parts from the clutch disk laying in a
>goop of metal flakes and caked oil (or something like it)? I guess it
>needed to be replaced!!!
>
>It took me another 30 minutes or so to clean up the inside of the Trans
>tunnel. I also have a problem with the clutch level. Some of the metal
>is worn down at the top. What I mean is that where the release bearing
>sits in the clutch lever, at the top of the curve there is rubbed out
>metal. Like it was sitting on a grindstone.
>
>This is why I am asking if anyone has a good used clutch lever they want
>to part with.
>
>At about 5:30 or 6:00 I decided to put the new clutch plate and clutch
>disk on. It went on without many hassles. The clutch alignment tool now
>goes in and out without friction so I just need to torque it down (I guess
>100 pounds). I could not find any specs??
>
>At 6:30 I stopped and spend the next hour cleaning up.
>
>SO WHERE AM I NOW:
>Now the transmission sits on the floor. I will probably take it out all
>the way, grab a mallet and pound 1/2 inch well on the inside where I was
>having problems earlier so I can slip it back in and all the way back to
>clear the center rod when I refit the transmission to the engine. If I
>cannot find a good used clutch lever I will use JB weld and reform the end
>of the top. About 1/4 of an inch was ground out on the top front holder.
>From that point, it will probably take two people to refit the
>transmission, but I think that if needed, this could be done with one
>person. CHRIS IF YOUíRE READING THIS FAR, I COULD REALLY USE YOUR HELP ON
>THIS PART. And then of course rebolt everything back.
>
>I figure I have about another two-three hours max before all is said and
>done.
>
>SO, can it be done from underneath, YES. With just ONE PERSON!
>I am surprised my hands are not as sore nor my body more bruised given the
>workout, but using the proper tools, taking it slowly and relying on jacks
>really made this workable with one-person. If I did not have the problem
>with the clutch lever it could be a one-day job. For about 6 hours work,
>and for the first time EVER, I think this is a pretty good job so far.
>
>Stay tuned . . .
>
>James Porco
>Dublin, Ohio
>
--
Max Heim
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
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