Anti-seize is good to use because the metals will bond together, the AL does
not melt. I put in heli-coils in my AL head to strengthen the plug holes
preventing cross threading problems. As a side effect I have now got stainless
steel plug holes that don't have the seize problem on the plugs. All of the
bolts that I run into the head I use anti-seize on.
On Tue, 23 May 2000, Dave Wood wrote:
> I changed the plugs in my daughters Mazda last night before I took it though
> the pollution test this morning where it passed I'm happy to say. My
> question is about the difficulty I had in removing two of the plugs. I've
> never had a plug so reluctant to be taken out. Two of them fought me all
> the way out. The engine had been run briefly about 3 hours previously so it
> was pretty cold by the time I removed the plugs. The most difficult one had
> aluminum in the bottom two or three threads. Does the aluminum melt into
> the plugs or what? The reason I am so concerned is that I need to change
> the plugs in my wife's Olds V6 which is going to be a misery anyway as I
> have to disconnect the dog bones and rotate the engine toward the front in
> order to remove the plugs on the firewall side. Since it also has aluminum
> heads and I know that the plugs have never been changed, am I looking at the
> same kind of difficulty to remove those? I understand that it is a good
> policy to put anti-seize compound on any bolts that go into aluminum and I
> assume this is correct for plugs as well? The only MG content is that there
> are aluminum heads available as replacement heads which I assume could cause
> the same kind of problem.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Dave 72 B
>
>
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