Okay, let me outline the scenario and then ask for feedback...
I've noticed that my '60 1600 is using a bit more oil than I'm comfy with.
> About 1qt. every 500-750 miles. Some attributable to slight, slight leak
in
> my rear seal, but I don't think I'm seeing THAT much on the drip pan. No
> noticeable blue smoke, just the usual "puff puff" of grey that it's always
> had when you tap the accelerator hard.
>
> Valve clearances WERE slightly off. High by about .002" across the board
> (hot, will check cold later, when car is, well... cold). Seemed to be
> running at about .017-.018. I've adjusted down to normal .015. Tappet
noise
> noticeably diminished. Engine seems "happier" in general now. No time yet
to
> see if this will impact oil usage.
>
> Not sure what's up with the rings. Dry compression was 150-152.5 across
the
> board, which seems A) good and B) very good in terms of no variation
> cylinder to cylinder. Wet was 175 across the board. I don't know what that
> means. I know that variation from dry to wet is a test to see if it's the
> rings or something else causing problems, but I've only ever seen
reference
> to that test on a cylinder exhibiting LOW compression. I don't know what
the
> "normal" variation from dry to wet compression test is... Is 150-175 a
> normal jump? I have to expect there would be SOME variation... If the
rings
> were bad, wouldn't compression suck to begin with? Also, can I take good
> compression as a sign that my valves, seats, et al are in reasonable
shape?
>
> Also, I'm having the same problem as Roger Graham. Mix seems to be "right"
> at only 3-4 flats down from the top... It had been set at the "normal"
9-ish
> flats down, and the plugs came out with some black carbon (not much)
> indicating rich running... I'm thinking of getting a colortune to make
sure
> once-and-for-all that the mixture is good (any experiences to share?). But
I
> still wonder if I shouldn't have the carbs off this winter and rebuild
> them??? Actually, ignore that. I AM going to rebuild them this winter. The
> question really is; is this something serious enough to warrant rebuild
NOW?
> Or can I safely wait?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kris
>
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