Bill: The best products I have ever used for permanent repairs are
manufactured by Duramix. They have epoxies to repair virtually anything you
could imagine. Their plastic repair kit was developed for motorcycle
farings. It is easy to use, permanent, can be sanded and painted. It is
superior to plastic welding in every respect. I have used the metal repair
kit and quite frankly, JB Weld for these applications are just a distant
memory.
However, JB Weld is the only product to use if you are repairing dents in
metal ( motorcycle gas tanks ) that will be powder coated as it is magnetic.
I hope this is of some value. BTW, I believe Duramix is only sold through
autobody supply stores.
Larry
The hottest places in Hell are reserved for
those who, in great moral crisis, maintain their neutrality.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Saidel <saidel@crab.rutgers.edu>
To: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>
Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: J-B Weld, is it really that good?
> So Barnay,
>
> Would J-B Weld be good body filler for the Crack O'Doom until a real
> solution is
> attempted?
>
>
> Bill
>
>
> At 05:02 PM 05/11/2000 -0500, you wrote:
> >At 09:06 AM 5/11/2000 EDT, Bob Donahue <BobMGT@aol.com> wrote:
> > >The clutch linkage lever and rods on my TD have worn out holes
(oversized
> >and oval shaped). The restoration manual suggest having holes filled up
> >with weld and then redrilled. I'm wondering if J-B Weld is tough enough
to
> >do the trick. Is this a dumb idea? Has anyone tried this? I've always
heard
> >amazing testimonies to the strength of this stuff and I've had good luck
> >with it myself.
> > >
> > >BTW: What is this stuff made of? My theory is that it's just epoxy
filled
> >with metal particles.
> >
> >J-B Weld is a very good adhesive and filler for metal parts. I have
> >recently found it to be good at glueing sheet metal body parts together
> >rather than welding for patch panels. However, it is not very good in
> >compression and abrasive wear conditions. You are correct in that it is
an
> >epoxy filled with metal particles. I'm sure it would quickly crumble or
> >wear away if used as a bearing material in a linkage pivot point. OTOH,
> >welding in the holes and redrilling is SOP, not terribly expensive, and
> >does indeed replace the steel in the joint, and the finished job should
be
> >as good as a new part. An alternative would be drilling to a larger
> >diameter and installing a bushing, but welding and redrilling is probably
> >about as cheap.
> >
> >Barnay Gaylord
> >1958 MGA with an attitude
> > http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
>
>
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