Hello Norm,
I got a generic one from an auto parts store, I don't know what it was from, if
your lucky they will just let you go in the back and open boxes until you find
one. Anyway, if you take the original one apart you will see a rubber
diaphragm, which is what failed. Also when you have it apart you will see how
easy it is to remove the diaphram, and seal the hole it covers.(the same hole
that allows the fluid to drip onto the distributor) What this does is makes the
heater valve fully open all the time, then you can insert the generic one inline
from the original valve to the heater core. It's not original, but I have
adjustable heat that will not leak onto the distributor....
Chad
'72 B
Salado Bound...
N wrote:
> Once again, my ire is raised by the unbelievable placement and construction
> of the Heater Water Control Valve on the MGB.
>
> What kind of thinking was it that placed a part prone to failure that
> contains liquid coolant directly over the source of electrical energy to
> make our cars run? It was truly diabolical!
>
> A valve that was installed new less than 2 years ago let go yesterday. I'm
> just glad it happened now and not 3 weeks ago on the track at Lime Rock.
>
> I did the usual quick-fix for the short-term: Dry out the distributor, keep
> the valve closed (heat off when I could have used it today) and leave the
> radiator pressure cap loose (at the first detent) to prevent pressure build
> up. A replacement valve is already on its way. BUT, there must be a better
> way!
>
> Anyone on the list ever try an alternative setup? Perhaps a valve from some
> other car that is less prone to failure? Maybe a deplumed line to the
> heater?
>
> Any suggestions would be welcomed.
>
> Norm Sippel
> '66 MGB daily driver/occasional vintage racer
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