---------- Original Text ----------
From: Scott Regel@dc@dpra, on 5/10/2000 3:23 PM:
To: SMTP@AST_SE4-1@Servers[<larryhoy@prodigy.net>]
Ouch Larry!
Flame suit on! Now I feel bad...not only due to your e-mail, but for getting
upset with Motorhead. I went to pick up the car and they reduced the price,
threw in a few items and took very good care of me. Answered my many
questions and made me feel alot better about the whole experience. My B is
running great. So my apologies to Motorhead's good name, Jeff and Dave were
great. I guess without shops like these we really would be on our own. Oh,
he put the clips on for free! So thanks for correcting me and keeping me
straight.
Scott
76 purring B!
----------
From: "Larry Hoy" <larryhoy@prodigy.net>, on 5/10/2000 11:49 AM:
Hmm, Scott, seems your a bit hard on Motorhead especially since you mention
"The only reason I
went to him is because they were nice enough to do a free tech session for
our local MG club".
Would you like him to work on your car for free too?
You mention, "I was missing those #$## clips on the rear wheel cyclinders and
asked him how much
he wanted just to put the two clips on...$35!" Sounds like a bargan to me,
see if you can do that
job in less than a half hour. Include the time pulling the car in the
garage, talking to the
customer, and filling out the paper work. Those little clips are very
difficult to install.
Larry Hoy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Scott Regel
> Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 7:21 AM
> To: IfixMGs@aol.com
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: re: frame pads and shop prices
>
>
> Thanks for the info Mark. You've talked me into doing it. Motorhead here in
> Northern Virginia wants $225 to do them. His prices are outragious! I'm
> trying to get the car to pass Maryland inspection and had to replace the
> steering rack. I bought the rack and decided to have a shop do it just to
> save me the frustration of trying to makeshift something to aline the
> steering shafts and re-mounting the rack just to get the right amount of
> shims in there. He still wants to charge me $260 when other shops up here
> charge $130 if you have the part. I was missing those #$## clips on the rear
> wheel cyclinders and asked him how much he wanted just to put the two clips
> on...$35! The only reason I went to him is because they were nice enough to
> do a free tech session for our local MG club and I wasn't aware of any good
> shops in the area. They also seem to have one of the best reputations for
> quality repairs. Sorry for venting!
>
> Does anyone else find these prices a bit high? But thanks for the details
> for replacing the pads. That's what I love about this list...you learn alot
> and keep from going to the poor house. And it's fun!
>
> Thanks
>
> Scott
> 76 B
> ---------- Original Text ----------
>
> From: <IfixMGs@aol.com>, on 5/10/2000 8:53 AM:
>
> Has anyone heard of a sub frame pad for the front suspension of a 76 B? My
> local shop says I need to replace them because the front end is starting to
> move? I've never heard of this before. They also ran a compression test on
> the old engine....150, 80, 110, 130. Will I need a rebuild real soon? What
> would cause No. 2 to be at 80? Bearing, ring? It doesn't blow smoke or
> consume and oil. Seems to run okay too. Hopefully it can hold off until
> later this year. I'll double check it when I get it home.
> SCOTT:
> I just finished a 2 week refurb of a 77 which hit a pothole so large
> that the car came to a dead halt inside the hole from 35 mph. The owner
> continued to drive it without an inspection for nearly a year!
> All 4 of the subframe bolts were loosend, and the pads between the
> crossmember and the body simply vanished thru the pulverization process.....
> The crossmember pivoted like the front end of a radioflyer wagon, and
> whenever the brakes were applied with the wheels turned, the car went out of
> control, but he pressed on, including several 500 mile round trips to the
> mountains! He had it checked out once at a garage, but they jacked the car
> from the crossmember, forcing it tight against the frame rails, and
> pronounced everything hunky dory, saying that little cars never handle
> well(????) This car needed new springs, kingpins, shocks, bushings and A
> arms to the tune of $600, but replacing the pads shouldn't run more than $140
> (2 hrs labor and parts) by someone not well versed in MGBs, and less if the
> guy really knows his stuff (and all goes well.....) I charge $100 plus pads,
> as a flat rate.
> Over the years, I've found many Bs with loose/missing and worn pads.
> The job is actually quite easy, and can be done with a floor jack,
> some jackstands and a 1/2" drive ratchet, 3/4 amd 5/8 sockets. short
> extension and breaker bar, and a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket and 9/16 wrench. With
> the car on jackstands (tires about 3" off ground, center the floor jack on
> the crossmember. Remove the 4 steering rack bolts, and the 5/8" bolts that
> hold the steering knuckles to the king pin swivels. Remove the 4 locknuts
> from the top of the frame rails and lower the front crossmember just enough
> to r&r the pads. I always stuff a piece of foam in the hole accessing the
> two forwardmost bolts to keep them from falling inside the crossmember and
> wasting time retreiving them. Replace all 8 pads (I use trimmed down spring
> pads when out of stock.....) and torque the daylights out of the nuts (really
> torque them to the book-spec...) and refit the steering rack. Last one I did
> took 45 minutes start to finish using an impact gun and air ratchet.
> Your compression numbers sound like valves are in need of a regrind.....
> Mark Childers Union Jack Spares VA Beach VA
>
>
>
|