If I am correct, these are the pads on the front crossmember bolts that
attach it to the frame. There are four bolts, each with a pad under the
crossmember and a pad on top of the crossmember that sandwiches between it
and the frame. The front bolts have the pads inside the crossmember
and these inside pads can only be gotten to with the springs removed (as
far as I can tell) and chances are that when you are changing the upper
ones at least one bolt will fall back inside the crossmember and you will
need to get in there so if I were you I would change them all then bolt up
to the frame before installing the springs again. Ask me how I know all
this. The whole job is surprisingly easy to do if you care to try. Just
jack the car up by the frame; I typically put a 2x4 under the frame rails
near the heelboards and jack on that. Put the car on jackstands, they
will sit just behind the crossmember. I have never done this with an
engine in, but I don't think it would be much different, except for the
2x4 part. The higher you can get the car the easier life will be.
Disconnect steering at the u-joint; if you are careful this could all be
done without disconnecting front brakes, but I have always done it during
a resto and just pulled the crossmember out to rebuild everything.
Pull the springs, so that you can get to the access hole behind
them. Loosen the four bolts and the crossmember will drop down. Replace
the pads and reinstall.
James Nazarian
'71 B roadster
'71 BGT rust free and burnt orange
'63 Buick 215
On Wed, 10 May 2000, Max Heim wrote:
> Got me on the "sub frame pad". Is it listed in the Moss catalog?
>
> As for the compression, you might want to adjust the valves and test
> again, since you aren't showing any particular symptoms.
>
> Scott Regel had this to say:
>
> >Has anyone heard of a sub frame pad for the front suspension of a 76 B? My
> >local shop says I need to replace them because the front end is starting to
> >move? I've never heard of this before. They also ran a compression test on
> >the old engine....150, 80, 110, 130. Will I need a rebuild real soon? What
> >would cause No. 2 to be at 80? Bearing, ring? It doesn't blow smoke or
> >consume and oil. Seems to run okay too. Hopefully it can hold off until
> >later this year. I'll double check it when I get it home.
> >
> >TIA
> >
> >Scott
> >76B
> >
> >
>
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB GHN3L76149
> If you're near Mountain View, CA,
> it's the red one with the silver bootlid.
>
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