How about the neon lights that I could attach to the undercarriage and
around the license plate?
At 11:40 AM 4/25/00 -0700, Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
>Sorry Tab. OD transmissions do not class as HFPD items. They are expensive
>and do not add measurably to the esteem of the vehicle to the uneducated and
>morally lax. They can be used to impress however, when the uninitiated
>passenger is blithely informed that the push in the back as the OD engages
>is due to the supercharger that you just switched on. Comparisons of James
>Bond may then be made, and the initiation of formal mating rites may begin.
>
>Keep in mind. Expensive options such as superchargers and overdrives are
>not HFPD items.
>
>Supercharger or V8 badges on normally aspirated stock, vehicles are HFPD
>items.
>
>
>Kelvin.
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tab Julius [mailto:tab@penworks.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 11:25 AM
> > To: Dodd, Kelvin
> > Cc: 'mgs@autox.team.net'
> > Subject: RE: In search of Better Brakes...
> >
> >
> >
> > Kelvin,
> >
> > A thoughtful and well-reasoned answer.
> >
> > It does seem that I should just make sure the regular ones
> > are in tune and
> > buy a top set of tires. Then I can save my money for other
> > higher HFPD
> > items (like an OD transmission? :)
> >
> > Thank you (and all others who responded).
> >
> > - Tab
> >
> > At 10:56 AM 4/25/00 -0700, Dodd, Kelvin wrote:
> > >Tab:
> > >
> > >
> > > The majority of brake modifications offered are to
> > prevent brake
> > >fade after multiple hard uses. This normally does not
> > happen in regular
> > >street driving unless one lives in canyon country and makes
> > suicide runs up
> > >and down the roads.
> > >
> > > There has been a wonderful discussion of vented
> > brakes on the E-Type
> > >list with the supplier of vented rotor kits stating that
> > most owners have
> > >absolutely no need for his product.
> > >
> > > It's all a question of mass and momentum. Heavier
> > mass, or higher
> > >velocity requires the generation of more heat to slow the
> > vehicle. Most MGs
> > >are light and do not make many hard stops from high speed.
> > Panic braking
> > >tends to be a one time event (unless you are in LA) and the
> > brakes then have
> > >time to cool. As stated, the MGB has more than enough brake
> > to lock up all
> > >wheels if you put enough foot pressure on the brake pedal.
> > Under hard
> > >braking the center of gravity moves forward lightening the
> > rear end. This
> > >allows the rear wheels to lock up, which is the limiting
> > braking factor. To
> > >prevent this different diameter wheel cylinders are used to
> > reduce rear
> > >wheel braking.
> > > The four puck vented brakes from the UK are real
> > expensive, and not
> > >legal for most racing in the US. That is why Moss has never
> > carried them.
> > >I'm hoping that we can come up with a US supplied set up at a more
> > >reasonable cost sometime, for the Ricky race set.
> > > Drilled rotors look really cool and do improve
> > cooling. So they do
> > >qualify as useful HFPD accessories. (This is a standard of
> > coolness that I
> > >created in college, measured in quantity of sexual
> > gratification per dollar,
> > >HFPD items include LED meters on stereos, plastic wheel
> > covers etc.) As
> > >for wet weather improvements, the concept that water will magically
> > >dissipate through the holes IMHO is hooey. The lack of
> > braking in wet
> > >weather is due to the rear drum brakes getting all icky,
> > nothing to do with
> > >sweeping water from the front discs. Test this by slamming
> > on your brakes
> > >in the wet. The front wheels will lock almost instantly.
> > >
> > > The feel of your brakes is what makes the driving
> > difference, not
> > >the real braking ability. Increasing the braking ability
> > for a certain
> > >amount of pedal force gives the feeling of better brakes.
> > The braking
> > >ability is limited to the grip of the tire under braking
> > conditions. Bigger
> > >brakes give the impression that there is more braking
> > ability, because for a
> > >given pedal pressure the car stops quicker. If however you
> > are able to lock
> > >up all four wheels with stock brakes, then you are gaining nothing in
> > >braking ability, except the lack of leg exercise.
> > Improvements come from
> > >the ability to modulate pressure so that maximum braking
> > force before lockup
> > >can be exerted. It is easier to modulate the brakes at
> > lower pressures,
> > >than with your leg mashed to the floor. That is where brake
> > servos and
> > >bigger brakes come in handy. You can apply full braking
> > with more control.
> > >Increased cooling ability becomes useful only under
> > aggressive use, not
> > >normally found in street driving.
> > >
> > > Tab. My suggestion is that you make sure that your
> > stock brakes are
> > >in good condition, and adjusted correctly. Then take a good
> > hard look at
> > >your tires. I would put any investment into your tires
> > first, as they are
> > >the weakest link on the car. A high quality 185/70 tire
> > mounted on the
> > >stock Rostyle or 5 1/2 inch alloy will make a huge
> > difference to all around
> > >safety.
> > >
> > >BTW don't worry too much about misquotes. Most advertising
> > text is written
> > >at the last minute by well meaning folks, who don't always
> > get it quite
> > >right.
> > >
> > >Kelvin.
> > >
> > >
> > > > Before I misquote our friends at Moss...
> > > >
> > > > I have seen something in their catalog, pretty sure, and I
> > > > believe it was
> > > > the cross-drilled rotors, basically with the holes to let the
> > > > water out and
> > > > stop faster in wet weather. I agree in theory it makes
> > > > sense, but I'm
> > > > looking for someone who actually has tried them.
> > > >
> > > > However my Moss catalog is in the MG at the moment, and the
> > > > MG is at the
> > > > shop getting some work done to it.
> > > >
> > > > The VB catalog is here, though. They offer 2 things. It may
> > > > be my fault
> > > > for not differentiating. First (pg 28 of Spring 2000 edition) has
> > > > "Ventilated Brake Disc Rotor... For Safer & Shorter Stopping
> > > > Power" (With
> > > > the Ventilated Disc Brake Rotor Set you can improve your
> > brakes heat
> > > > dissipation to insure safer, straighter, and shorter stopping
> > > > power. Ventilated with holes to help keep your brakes
> > > > cooler, any water
> > > > that forms is shifted into the holes, therefore the need for
> > > > the brake pad
> > > > to shift the water before it begins braking is
> > eliminated. The more
> > > > efficiently your MGB's brakes dissipate heat, the more
> > > > efficient they will
> > > > perform."
> > > >
> > > > Second, page 26, what I looked quickly and thought was
> > the same, is
> > > > not. "The Ultimate in Stopping Power for Your MGB" (and it
> > > > lists years
> > > > 62-80, so I'm not sure this is the same as what Kelvin
> > was referring
> > > > to). "(marketing stuff snipped) Complete Bolt-on brake
> > kit Includes:
> > > > Vented rotors with adapters, 4 piston calipers, Carbon fiber
> > > > disc pads,
> > > > Stainless front brake hoses, and Hardware. The four
> > piston calipers
> > > > increase clamping power of carbon fiber pads on vented
> > > > rotors. This gives
> > > > you many benefits: decreased stopping distance, better
> > > > cooling, and reduced
> > > > brake fade. These brakes perform better and last longer
> > under harsh
> > > > conditions. Track proven on MGB race cars. This is the kit
> > > > MGB racers are
> > > > using."
> > > >
> > > > The picture, now that I look at it, clearly shows the kit
> > on pg 26 is
> > > > vented (on edges) and not cross-drilled (like the
> > > > "Ventilated" ones on page
> > > > 28).
> > > >
> > > > I'm interested in opinions on either kit. Given what Kelvin
> > > > said about my
> > > > having power brakes, is the Vented Rotor kit still
> > > > applicable? Which I
> > > > presume it is, given it lists the years 62 to 80 (mine is a '78).
> > > >
> > > > Hope this clears it up a bit...
> > > >
> >
> >
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