Hi larry,
sorry i was writing that e-mail late last night with the haynes manual still
in the garage. You're absolutely right, i meant the plunger (component #1 on
the zenith carb diagram p83 in the haynes manual). I have another shop
manual (the brooklands books manual) which says just to remove the plunger
and top up the oil, none of this removing the air filter stuff that the
haynes reccommends.
anyway... thanks!
cheers
Joe
_________________
Dr. Joseph Garner
Department of Animal Science,
University of California,
One Shields Avenue,
Davis,
CA 95616
USA
tel: + 530 754 5291
fax: + 530 752 0175
_________________
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Macy [mailto:macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu]
> Sent: Monday, April 24, 2000 3:56 AM
> To: Garner, Joseph P.; MG list (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: more idiot questions
>
>
> Joe, let me get this straight. You are talking about the
> plungers on the
> shaft that goes into the top of the piston - right, not the actual
> piston? In my understanding you want 1/4" of resistance when
> replacing
> the plunger. If you take out the piston and pour oil in it
> runs into the
> manifold, I think.
>
> Could be wrong, but I have NEVER been wrong. ;-) So this
> would be a first.
>
> Larry
>
> >>>>On 4/24/00 1:11 AM so and so (Garner, Joseph P.) said.
> (And I quote:)
>
> >Hi everyone
> >
> >I had an interesting, but unsatisfying evening tinkering
> today. First on the
> >list was reconneting/taping up a loose wire (door alarm
> switch) to the
> >buzzer. After unscreewing the gear shift knob and taking off
> the arm rest
> >panel, and unscrewing the lower instrument panel, and taking
> off the heater
> >control knobs i discover (to my annoyance) that my socket
> set wasn't deep
> >enough to undo the retaining nuts on the heater controls, so
> i wound up
> >fishing the offending wire out from behind the instrument
> panel with a pair
> >of tweezers and taping it up... talk about wasted effort.
> anyway, I my peace
> >of mind is better now that i don't have a loose wire
> floating around back
> >there.
> >
> >So i'm doing my monthly checks, and i'm onto checking the
> carb. oil. (one of
> >the answers to my previous post about poor fuel efficincy
> was to check the
> >carb oil level). Well the Haynes manual says you should
> have about 1/4" of
> >resistance when you drop the piston back in... hmmm.... mine
> seems to slide
> >in without any resistance at all. eeek. So here's my idiot
> question. The
> >mechanic who checked the car over for me before i bought it
> told me i could
> >top up the oil just by taking the piston out and pouring the
> oil straight
> >in. The Haynes manual says to take off the air filter
> assembly first. There
> >must be rhyme and reason to this so i was wondering (idiot
> second question
> >coming up) why this is recommended. I'm one of these
> annoying people who
> >isn't simply happy to follow instructions... I like to know
> why i'm doing
> >what I'm doing...
> >
> >Thanks in advance!
> >
> >cheers
> >
> >Joe
> >
> >_________________
> >
> >Dr. Joseph Garner
> >Department of Animal Science,
> >University of California,
> >One Shields Avenue,
> >Davis,
> >CA 95616
> >USA
> >
> >tel: + 530 754 5291
> >fax: + 530 752 0175
> >_________________
> >
>
>
> Larry Macy
> 78 Midget
>
> Keep your top down and your chin up.
>
> Larry B. Macy, Ph.D.
> macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu
> System Manager/Administrator
> Neuropsychiatry Section
> Department of Psychiatry
> University of Pennsylvania
> 3400 Spruce St. - 10 Gates
> Philadelphia, PA 19104
>
> Ask a question and you're a fool for three minutes; do not ask a
> question and you're a fool for the rest of your life.
>
|