Hi Dave:
I am leaning toward suspecting bad connections. Check not only the two
ground connection (battery to chassis and chassis to engine) but also check
hot wire connections from battery to starter. Jumper across the suspect
connection using my test method detailed below.
Good data point would be to check the voltage at the fuse panels both with
and without starter running ( I think Paul and Larry suggested this earlier.
Record these values. Now to do the jumper tests. Once you see a change in
the voltage values, you have found your poor connection.
Good luck ....
Tim
'69 BGT mona
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <hearts@radiks.net>
To: "Tim Economu" <economu@whidbey.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2000 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: radio sings the blues-IDEA!
> tim:
>
> the light in my brain just went on. your right. if each battery measures
at 7
> volts which is how I did measure them (on each battery terminal posts one
at a
> time) that totals 14 volts! so each battery is a little above its rating
> right? which means ok-right? I will check ground connections this
weekend per
> your test and let you know! thanks for the advice!
>
> dave
>
> Tim Economu wrote:
>
> > Dave:
> > >for 24hours as suggested. is it ok to just leave on one battery
charge
> > will
> > > flow over into second I assume since they are connected in series).
If
> > they
> >
> > You can charge at 12V if you go across both batteries since they are in
> > series. You can charge one at a time at 6V since they are NOT in
parallel.
> > If you are charging one battery at 6V the current will not flow into the
> > other battery. It must be charged separately.
> >
> > > what did you think about my comment on the starter
engaging/disengaging
> > while
> > > cranking? low battery could cause?
> >
> > I think low battery could cause this. But if each battery is at 7V after
> > charging, for a 14V string total, the battery is not probably low. I
think
> > the problem maty be the battery to ground wire or connection. Or the
battery
> > cable to the starter connection. Or the ground strap from engine to
chassis
> > connection.
> >
> > I had a bad connection on the engine ground strap that caused the
starter to
> > run VERY slowly. So slow that it would not always start the engine. To
> > isolate the cause I did this simple test. I used a good heavy gauge (#4
wire
> > home-made) jumper cable. I connected the cable across the factory made
> > connections. First from battery negative to a clean place on the
chassis.
> > Then started to the car. Starter still slow.
> > Second from batt negative to engine. Then started the car, but this time
it
> > started OK. AHAH I says to myself. I have found that there is a poor
> > connection from engine to ground (since ground to batt is ok).
> >
> > This method works because you are paralleling the poor connection (or
bad
> > wire), with a good wire and connection. The resistance of the poor
circuit
> > goes from ohms to milliohms and Viola, you have the location of the
problem.
> > You still need to discern whether the wire or the connection is bad, but
9
> > times in 10 it will be the connection.
> >
> > But I digress. First make sure those batts can hold a charge. 7V each or
14V
> > across the string after the trickle charger is removed (for a couple
hours)
> > is very good. What about under load? Put on the lights. What is bat
voltage
> > now?
> >
> > Kind regards...
> > Tim
>
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