Oh dear.
Brown coolant indicates its been running for too long with just water in the
system, which causes internal corrosion of the block which causes sludging
of the cooling system which can cause overheating. Block, rad and heater
core need a good flushing out in both directions.
Loss of cooling fans causes overheating, which if the temp gauge isn't
working so you can't see it will eventually boil over. If the boil only
occured as you stopped then you may have escaped other damage, or maybe not.
The fans, other circuits you mentioned and the ignition all work off the
white/brown, the other ciruits via the green (fused ignition) the fuse for
which is the 2nd one up in the 4-way block. The cooling fan has its own
fuse. It's possible there are bad connections where the white/brown
connects to the fuse block, and this could explain why the fans and other
circuits failed (even though they are fused separately) but the engine
continued to run, also why replacing fuse(s) didn't do any good.
The engine can't run 180 degrees out (I bet yours wishes it was) but
over-advanced timing can cause overheating as well as engine damage. You
really shouldn't be running the car if you know the timing is way off and
haven't finished adjusting the carbs.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Jose <mwjose@u.arizona.edu>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2000 10:00 AM
Subject: brown coolant, blown fuse, push starts
> It's good we are discussing coolant recovery, because i lost some from
> my 79 B today
> Several items to discuss:
> most importantly, my car blew a fuse today, and the replacement did not
> change things.
> I lost my tachometer (rev counter), my temp gauge (which i had just
> fixed), and my fuel gauge. I also lost my two electric fans, at least
> when i turn the ignition switch.
> I had been driving today, which was getting up in the 90's, and the car
> kept dying, so i had to keep the RPMs high when stopped. then all the
> gauges went out. the car had been at 3/4 on the temp gauge, so i was a
> little worried. Pulled in to get some gas, and a huge puddle of RUSTY
> BROWN coolant forms!!!!!!!!
> I removed the cap from the overflow, and a huge cascade of more of the
> stuff follows, with steam and bubbling as well. I added more 50/50
> coolant/water, and then discovered the fuse blown and the fans not
> working. spent my last 80 cents on some cheap replacement fuses, and no
> go
> so i start it up after letting it cool off for a bit (and most of a tank
> of gas), and then drive home with as few lights as possible to keep it
> from idling at standstill, to keep air moving over it. I got back to the
> dorm in one piece, and there actually wasn't a big pool of coolant this
> time...so....?
> I didn't chance it, got a ride to work, and when I got back, couldn't
> start it. Had friends push while i started it, and this worked, until i
> had to stop, and the car died. Used my friend's car to give me a bump
> (see, rubber bumpers are great on MGBs!!), and got it back to my legal
> parking spot.
> This relates to a problem i have been having: when the engine is just
> started, it usually runs okay, but then will die, and i have to crank
> and gas for about five minutes before it finally gets up enough go to
> go.
> I thought it was because I had no thermostat, but i replaced it, and
> still have had the problem.
> The carb is brand new rebuilt, but I havent' made the final adjustments
> because I think my timing is severely troubled. Can a car run with the
> distributor 180 degrees off? when i tried to time my car, the light
> said i was over 70 degrees BTDC, which ain't right.
> Could these problems be related?
> Does brown coolant mean I have a blown head gasket?
> it wasnt' thick and frothy, but was reddish brown.
> any ideas on the fuse?
> thanks for the help...
> don't want to have to quit the job because of my car...
> Mike Jose
>
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