Thanks Jim,
Murphey struck...as soon as I finished and sent the email...my coffee buzz
settled in and I remembered...I just got too lazy to resubmit another email.
:o)
Dan
On Mon, 27 Mar 2000 11:07:26 -0700 (MST), James Nazarian Jr wrote:
> plug weld
>
> James Nazarian
> '71 B roadster
> '71 BGT rust free and burnt orange
> '63 Buick 215
>
> On Mon, 27 Mar 2000, Dan Dwelley wrote:
>
> > Craig,
> >
> > I think I would make use of that 1" lip. I would drill 1/8" holes in
the
> > center of the lip every 2 to 3 inches then Clamp the floor panel in
place
> > and weld through the holes to the inner sill. This will simulate a spot
type
> > weld. There is a name for this procedure...yet I can't for the life of
me
> > remember it at this moment. None The less, this will make for a solid
floor.
> > Remember, you're not drilling hole into the inner sill...only through
the
> > lip of the new floor pan.
> >
> > Good Luck and have fun,
> >
> > Dan Dwelley
> > 77 Midget
> > Alexandria, Va.
> >
> >
> > On Sun, 26 Mar 2000 20:44:05 -0500, Craig D. Niederst wrote:
> >
> > > The passenger side floor pan on my '71 B needs replacing (thought it
> > could
> > > be patched, but there would be more patch there than floor pan). The
pan
> > has
> > > rusted from the inside down due to water that had gotten into the
car. It
> > > looks like water was definitely sitting along the inner sill wall,
and
> > thus
> > > has rusted through in some places. In trying to remove the pan, it
> > appears
> > > the DPO attempted to repair the floor previously. The DPO's repair
was to
> > > rivet a new lip onto the bottom of the sill area under the car for a
1
> > foot
> > > or so length of the pan, and then riveted it to the badly rusted
floor
> > (this
> > > repair was nicely hidden by undercoating from underneath, BTW). The
> > > crossmembers under the floor pan are solid, as are the jacking point
and
> > lip
> > > along the tranny tunnel. The new floor pan I bought is a Steelcraft
pan,
> > and
> > > it has the 1" or so vertical lip around its perimeter. Since the lip
> > along
> > > the sill is in poor shape, would a seam weld attaching this lip to
the
> > inner
> > > sill wall be enough for a sound floor on the sill side? Also, does
the
> > floor
> > > pan provide structural strength to the spring hanger? The floor pan
> > around
> > > the spring hanger on the passenger side again rusted from the inside
down
> > > (about 1" of the front of the bracket is now visible from inside the
> > car),
> > > but the bracket is undamaged and is solidly in place. Does this need
> > > repaired additionally for structural concerns, or is this just
cosmetic?
> > > BTW, any ideas on how much a welding repair like this should cost? I
am
> > > removing the floor pan my self (or at least trying to), and will be
> > > providing the new floor pan. TIA
> > >
> > > Craig
> > > '71 B
> > >
> >
> >
> > Dan Dwelley
> > 77 Midget
> > Alexandria, Va.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
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> >
>
Dan Dwelley
77 Midget
Alexandria, Va.
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