I don't recall ever seeing a torque setting for studs, but I have always
cleaned the threads and put them in tight. If you use a double nut to put
them in you can tighten to approximately the same as the nuts, which is 45
to 50 lb. ft. I would do a bit less say 35 to 40 myself. If you use a stud
remover just make them reasonably tight. If you go past the ends of the
threads, you will likely break the stud. The important thing is the head
bolts and the order that they are tightened. Start at 10-15 lbs for all,
then increase by 10 lbs or so in the correct order. If you don't know the
order, start in the middle of the head and work your way left and right up
and down towards the ends to distribute the tension evenly. Then start over
in the middle increasing the torque by about 10 lbs and do it again and
again until all the nuts are 45 to 50 ft lbs. You will find that the studs
are tightened at the same time that the nuts are tightened, so you don't
have to worry too much about putting the studs in, except to make sure you
have enough threads in that they won't pull out. One more thing, remember
to retorque after running the engine and getting it warmed up.
Hope this helps. I never had a problem with a B, but sure have lots of
experience with old flat head Fords and Mercs from years ago.
Dave 72 B
-----Original Message-----
From: ahhclem@kcnet.com <ahhclem@kcnet.com>
To: mgs@autox.team.net <mgs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, March 19, 2000 7:21 PM
Subject: Head Studs
>Does anyone know if there is a torque value for the cylinder head studs?
>I've looked thru the Haynes book and don't see a reference.
>
>
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