Adam--
Had a similar problem with my mga engine. I got 2 or 3 pistons out by using
a bolt of firewood (elm resists splitting when you hit it) and a 3# hammer.
You usually have to drive them down because there's often a ridge around the
top that will stop the rings. However, 1 or 2 pistons (I've repressed the
memory) wouldn't travel down. I drove them up 'till the rings hit the ridge.
Then--and this was the key--I scraped the scale of rust off the exposed
cylinder wall below the piston skirt. That layer of scale had stopped the
rings just the way the ridge at the top does. I think I used the round end
of an old hacksaw blade and lots of solvent. That enlarged the cylnder
diameter and allowed the pistons to be driven down and out.
Have fun and don't hit your finger.
John Vallely
'58 mga
Adam Arabian wrote:
> Apologies for the repost, but I'm losing my mind and I forgot to change
> the subject line. I'm losing my mind. This proves it.
>
> Quick run down - my 52 TD was idle with fluids in it for about 30 years
> until I
> decided to try and rescue it. I've pulled the engine and have removed
> the cyl.
> head and pan. The unfortunate realization is that the pistons are
> rusted into
> the block solid. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to remove them?
> I've
> tried tapping, pounding, and pursuading to no avail. Two pistons are at
> TDC (or
> only a couple of degrees off that) and teh other two are (obviously I
> guess) at
> or near BDC. Due to rust on the pistons and the connecting rods they
> have to be
> replaced, so worst comes to worst I can have the machine shop drill them
> out
> when I get the cyls. bored, but I would prefer to do it myself, both for
>
> personal edification and, er, financial reasons (grad students don't
> make much
> money, y'know...)
>
> Recently there has been a good thread on storing engines and trannys - I
> guess
> I'm currently going through a bit of an object lesson as to what happens
> when
> the DPO DOESN'T do these things... ;)
>
> TIA,
> A. Arabian
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